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Interview with Beckett – A Year of Travel Wrap-up

Interview with Beckett at the end of our year of traveling (age 7)

Paragliding in Ölüdeniz, Turkey
Paragliding in Ölüdeniz, Turkey

Q: Have you enjoyed traveling this past year?
Beckett: Yes. I’ve enjoyed traveling because you can go a lot of fun places like Turkey and Thailand.

 

Q: What do you like most about traveling?
Beckett: That I get to do fun activities like paragliding and ziplining and stuff. And elephant camp.

Riding an elephant in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Riding an elephant in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Ziplining in Thailand
Ziplining in Thailand

Q: What did you like least about traveling?
Beckett: I have to pack and unpack my bag. And as soon as I find somewhere fun, I have to leave.

 

Q: What toys/games are you happy you brought with you?
Beckett: Stuffies! Stuffies is like everything I brought.

 

Q: What were your favorite places? Why?
Beckett: Thailand because we went to an elephant camp and took care of elephants for a day and cleaned it, checked the poo, ate lunch then bathed it. And I also went ziplining through the trees in a jungle. We saw gibbons through the trees.

Turkey because I went paragliding and they have delicious pancakes – yum yum. The paragliding was so fun – you were 6000’ up – but the drive was really scary.

Santorini because we went ATV-ing. And Morocco because we went ATV-ing out in the desert and because of the cobra show.

Watching a cobra in the Medina in Marrakech, Morocco
Watching a cobra in the Medina in Marrakech, Morocco
Driving an ATV in Morocco
Driving an ATV in Morocco

Q: What were your least favorite places? Why?
Beckett: Istanbul.  There was just nothing really good to see there.  And Spain, there was just nothing really good to do around.

 

Q: What were your favorite experiences?
Beckett: Ziplining. Taking care of elephants for a day. Paragliding! ATV-ing. Going up the Eiffel Tower. Walking on the Great Wall of China and taking the toboggan down. Ice cream show in Turkey. Yee Peng. Tigers. Turkish Bath.

Ice cream show in Turkey
Ice cream show in Turkey
Up the Eiffel Tower late at night
Up the Eiffel Tower late at night
Yee Peng in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Yee Peng in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Beck and Mara running on the Great Wall of China
Beck and Mara running on the Great Wall of China
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Cuddling with tigers in Thailand

Q: What were your least favorite experiences?
Beckett: My least favorite experience was trying new foods. The ferry from Rhodes to Turkey – I hate that. I did not like Pamukkale. The scary drive up the mountain to paraglide.  Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace in Istanbul were boring.

 

Q: Did you enjoy being homeschooled?
Beckett: Uhhhhh… don’t know. It was ok.

 

Q: What was your favorite homeschool subject?
Beckett: Science

 

Q: What was your least favorite homeschool subject?
Beckett: Writing

 

Q: What have you learned from your travels so far?
Beckett: That traveling can be fun but also not fun. How bad the ferry from Rhodes to Turkey was. How boring plane rides are.   How fun ATVs are. How fun paragliding and taking care of an elephant is. How fun ziplining is.

 

Q: What were some of your favorite foods?
Beckett: Turkish pancakes. Crepes. Mac n’ cheese from Hotel Letoon in Fethiye, Turkey. Baguettes.  Food-go-round.  MK in Thailand.

Eating Gözleme (Turkish pancakes) in Calis Beach, Turkey
Eating Gözleme (Turkish pancakes) in Calis Beach, Turkey
Food-Go-Round in Thailand
Food-Go-Round in Thailand

Q: What do you miss the most about the USA?
Beckett: Having a house and not having to pack your bags every once in a while.   And unpack them. Finding friends and not having to leave them.

 

Q: What will you miss the most about traveling?
Beckett: Going fun places and doing once in a lifetime experiences.

 

Q: Where do you want to travel next?
Beckett: Go on African safari.

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Me-O Veterinary Clinic in Kidzania in Bangkok
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Making curry paste at Sammy’s Cooking School in Chiang Mai, Thailand
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Washing MaeBonChon in the river at Patara Elephant Camp in Thailand
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Feeding a baby tiger at the Night Safari in Chiang Mai, Thailand
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FC Barcelona futbol game at Camp Nou in Barcelona, Spain
Beckett and his magic genie lamp
Beckett and his magic genie lamp in Marrakech, Morocco
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Loi Krathong festival in Chiang Mai, Thailand
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Crossing the Mekong River in a longtail boat from Thailand to Laos
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Le Meridian Chiang Rai
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Going Viking at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo, Norway
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Tiny alley in Santorini, Greece
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Santorini, Greece
Tuk Tuk Race!
Tuk Tuk Race!
Fresh squeezed OJ from #63 in Marrakech, Morocco
Fresh squeezed OJ from stall #63 in Marrakech, Morocco
Feeding pigeons at Tha Pae Gate in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Feeding pigeons at Tha Pae Gate in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Zorb balls in Thailand
Zorb balls in Thailand
Tree "snow" in Paris
Tree “snow” in Paris
Riding a donkey in Marrakech, Morocco
Fish Spa in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Fish Spa in Chiang Mai, Thailand

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Asia Chiang Rai Favorite Moments Myanmar Thailand

Road Trip Disaster (and Recovery)

In early October, we did our second border run to the Myanmar border at Mae Sai, which is about 4 1/2 hours from Chiang Mai.  We drove up to Chiang Rai the first day, then planned to do our crossing on day 2, hit the Monkey & Fish Cave right afterward, then jet back to Chiang Mai.

Well, it didn’t quite shake out like that.

Our border crossing was uneventful, but we spent way more time than we expected with the monkeys, putting us in a bit of a rush.  The mountains between Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai have a lot of twists and turns, and people drive CRAZY on them, so we didn’t want to go through them at night.

We’re jamming back towards Chaing Rai and all of the sudden the car loses power in the middle of the highway.  Luckily I was able to coast to the side and get out of the traffic lanes.  I tried restarting the car a couple times and had no luck.

Then we smelled gas, and bailed everyone out of the car, along with all our important stuff.

After a few minutes of gathering ourselves, I decide to go see if I can put the car into neutral and move it up a little bit to a better spot.  When I turned the ignition to free the gear shift, I could hear gas pouring out of the bottom of the car.  Again, I got out hastily and saw a wide pool of gas coming from underneath the car.

So there we are, about 30 minutes from the nearest city, and about 3 1/2 hours from home.  No phone, don’t speak Thai.  No clue what we’ll do about the car or what we’ll do that night.  Definitely an “awww, shit!” moment, but both Kirsten and I were fairly calm about it, for no good reason.

There was a building nearby with what looked like a small restaurant and store, and we figured we’d go in and call the company we rented the car from, then figure out housing.

Meanwhile a woman came out from the store and started gesturing at and talking to us.  We tried to indicate that we had car problems (though I suppose that was obvious),  and wanted to use a phone.  She kept talking to us and started gesturing toward the side of the building.

I followed her over and sure enough, around the side of the building was a little shop for a guy who does auto repair!

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My new favorite repair shop

I wandered back there on my own and tried to indicate that my car was broken down right outside.  He was pretty confused, but followed me partway out to the street.  The lady who sent us to him, then poked her head out of a window and told him what was going on.

He came out front, looked under the car, and found some part of the fuel line that had come off.  He then stuck it on, and had me drive back to his shop.  Seemed weird to start up the car while sitting in a puddle of gas, but hey, I lived to tell about it.

Meanwhile the lady from the shop had a couple friends there who came out and checked out the kids.  Many Thais love to touch our kids, especially Beckett with his blond hair.  They also brought out water for Kir and the kids so they could stay comfortable while waiting.

Back in the shop, he jacked it up, pulled another part off the car, then got some rusty wire and bound the whole assembly back together.  You hear the phrase about things being build with duct tape and baling wire – that was actually the case here.   Verrrry confidence-inspiring.

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Here’s the part for my car. Just a coil of rusty wire.
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The final repair job. What could go wrong?!

So after about 30 minutes he puts the car down and indicates he’s done.  Someone else at his shop spoke limited English and indicated it was OK to drive to Chiang Mai as the car was, but that we should get it repaired there.

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I’m figuring the fix is going to cost me $20-30.  Costly for Thailand, but damn reasonable for a man stuck in the middle of nowhere!  I gestured about “how much” to him and he shook his head.  He wouldn’t even take money for fixing me up.  Crazy!

I drove back out to the street, loaded up, and said goodbye to our new friends.

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At this point, it was 4 pm and we were never going to make it back to Chiang Mai during daytime, plus now we have this gas leak repair of dubious integrity.

What to do?  Well, we decided to use the last of my Starpoints and go spend one more night at the Le Meridien in Chiang Rai, then drive back to Chaing Mai in the morning.  Took a little bit of funky logistics, but we got it all worked out.

So about 90 minutes after staring disaster in the face, we were poolside ordering cocktails and food from room service.   Can’t believe we were lucky to break down next to an auto shop, on a day he’s open, at a time he’s open, when he could handle us right away, with a car problem he could actually fix.   Once we  were forced from the car due to gas fumes, we knew we’d have some sort of story, but didn’t see this ending coming!

Here are a few shots of our stay at the Le Meridien Chiang Rai, which was far better than being stuck roadside!

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Animals Asia Chiang Rai Thailand

Monkey & Fish Cave near Mae Sai, Thailand

279On our last border run to Myanmar, we stopped at the Monkey & Fish cave. I wanted to visit on our last trip, but wasn’t able to find any good directions. However, this time Chuck found the way and we thought it’d be a fun 15 minute diversion on our way back to Chiang Mai.

We ended up spending a good 1 1/2 hours there and it became a highlight of our Thailand trip.

When we first arrived and walked back to where the monkeys appeared to be, we saw at least a hundred monkeys descending the cliffs then jumping on the roof of a building before scaling down to the ground we were standing on. Big ole daddy monkeys, teeny tiny baby monkeys that were more careful and would tentatively hang on to a ledge then finally let go only to tumble down a little and grab onto something else, to all sizes of monkeys in between.

And yes, there are fish here as well, but the monkeys steal the show!

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Can you see them on the cliffs? There are at least 20 in this picture!

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It was amazing to see these wild monkeys in their habitat and just, well, being monkeys.

We saw baby monkeys wrestling with each other, one baby monkey was running and jumped over their mother only to have the mom snatch the baby out of the air and then pull it to her chest, and baby monkeys clutching to their parent’s bodies.

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We also saw monkeys cleaning each others’ fur, monkeys fighting with each other, monkeys climbing on things, and even a monkey swimming.

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We also got to witness and dog & monkey fight!

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You could buy peanuts to feed the monkeys but there were signs up warning not to let kids have the food. They also give you a big stick so you can keep the monkeys from getting too aggressive. And yes, they can get aggressive when it comes to food. Some would take it out of our hands and others were really good catchers and you could throw the peanut and they’d catch it like it was a fly ball.

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After we’d had enough of the monkeys we wandered the grounds a bit. There are some other animals there like crocodiles, fish, a peacock and more. And there is a Wat and a very old looking … chedi, I think is the term. There was also a cave you could go into. The setting was beautiful as well with the lush green trees and cliffs.

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All in all, it was an awesome diversion.

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The logistics:

Official Name: Tham Phum Tham Pla, but best to look for Wat Tham Pla, or use the coordinates 20.330764,99.863935 in Google Maps.

Location: The Monkey & Fish Cave is located 12km into Thailand from the Mae Sae border crossing with Talichek, Myanmar.  From Highway 1, turn at this sign for Wat Tham Pla on the West side of the road and drive straight for approx 2 km until it dead-ends at the Wat.

wat tham pla

Park outside and walk in.  Head to the left for the monkeys.  Enjoy!


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Asia Chiang Rai Thailand

Black House – Baan Dam

I wasn’t sure what to expect when I saw the Black House.  I’d seen a few pictures and heard it was a bit “dark” but hadn’t done much research.

Well, yes, it is a bit dark.  There are animal bones all through it as well as huge snake skins and other kind of creepy things.  However, I loved most of the buildings themselves and there was something so artful about the whole presentation.

Special thanks to Erin and Simon at Never Ending Voyage.  We only heard about this because of their blog.  They also take WAY better pictures than us, so go enjoy their post as well. http://www.neverendingvoyage.com/black-house-chiang-rai-thailand/

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Directions:

I’ve seen the Black House’s official name listed as both Baan Si Dum and Baan Dam.  It’s on the outskirts of Chiang Rai.  Coordinates are 19.992174,99.86021, as mapped below.  I’ve also posted some navigation, since it’s a bit tricky to find.


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Go North on Route 1 from Chiang Rai towards Mae Sai.

Once you pass the university (about 6 km past the Kok river, a huge CRU sign on the left) you’re about 2 km away.

When you see a purple sign that says Thawan Duchanee, you’re almost there!

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Turn left at Soi 13 and drive for a couple minutes

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Finally, turn left at this 4-way sign and drive to the end

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Chiang Rai Cultural Favorite Moments Thailand

White Temple in Chiang Rai

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On our first border run to Myanmar, we stopped at Wat Rong Khun, aka The White Temple, on the outskirts of Chiang Rai.  I’d seen pictures and it looked amazing but it is much cooler in person.

Its not a very big temple.  Yet.  They’re currently constructing many new buildings and over time, they’ll each be decorated just as the main temple we saw.

The temple was started by a Thai artist in 1997 and work is planned to continue for many, many years even after the artist dies.  It is a Buddhist temple, but a very unconventional one.

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You enter the main temple by walking over a bridge which I think is supposed to symbolize the cycle of rebirth.  You cross over the pits of Hell with people reaching trying to escape.  And Death is guarding the end of the bridge.  Its all pretty disturbing and Mara walked over it really fast without looking.

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Look at me standing over the pits of Hell

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Ahhhh, safely over the pits of Hell:

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Unfortunately, you aren’t allowed to take pictures inside the temple.  The inside is equally unconventional – there are paintings of modern scenes such as the World Trade Center towers being attacked, The Matrix, Michael Jackson and more.  It’s still very much a work in progress and we saw someone painting on one of the walls while we were there.

The bathrooms are equally extraordinary and housed in this beautiful gold building:

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Inside the bathrooms
Inside the bathrooms

More buildings are being built around the grounds and in time, they too will be decorated.

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Around the grounds there are these towers decorated with thousands of hanging metal ornaments.  You can buy one, write a message on it and hang it with the rest which will become a permanent decoration on the temple property.  So of course we bought one for each of us, each wrote a personal message and hung ours up.

An ornament
An ornament
Lots of ornaments hanging around the property
Lots of ornaments hanging around the property
The kids with their ornaments
The kids with their ornaments
"Live Beyond Fear"
“Live Beyond Fear”

The White Temple is definitely worth a visit if you come to the Chiang Rai area. I would love to see what its going to look like in another 10, 20 and more years.

Entrance is free and you can see everything in 60-90 minutes, but I’d plan on 2-4 hours to really explore and enjoy everything.

Asia Chiang Mai Chiang Rai Laos Myanmar Thailand

Our First Border Run to Myanmar

This article summarizes our border run, but we also have posts and more pictures for the following 4 stops we made on the trip.

We came to Thailand with a Triple Entry visa which we got from Thailand’s Portland Embassy in the USA.  If we waited til we arrived in Thailand, we would’ve been allowed 30 days in Thailand and then would’ve had to leave the country every 30 days.  With a visa, we were granted 60 days per visit.

Our first 60 days was up on August 11, so we knew we needed to leave Thailand on or before that date.  All you have to do to leave Thailand is cross into a neighboring country and you can immediately return and go through Thailand immigration.

The border run to Tachileik, Myanmar is a common one used by expats in Chiang Mai so we decided to do our first border run there.  Many expats do it as a day trip using one of the bus services but we opted to do it ourselves over 3 days.  First, we had a car, and Chuck is king of the road trip, so why not?  Two, the kids were going to be a disaster sitting in a bus for 10 hours (5 hours there and 5 hours back) careening over mountain roads.  And three, it let us craft our own trip stopping at lots of places along the way.  So Project Border Run to Myanmar was launched and on Saturday, August 10, off we went!

We started by driving from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai which is about a 2.5-3 hours journey.  We stopped for lunch at a mall in Chiang Rai then headed to The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun).  After a few hours exploring the temple, we checked into our hotel, the Le Meridien Chiang Rai which we all loved.  The room was huge, had 2 large queen beds (that were blissfully comfortable) and meant all 4 of us could stay in 1 room which is not easy to find in Asia.  It was also free thanks to our Starwood points!

The room had robes and slippers and the best balcony so the kids spent the visit wrapped in robes and happy as clams.

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Robe heaven!
Robe heaven!

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3 tiered pool overlooking the river
3 tiered pool overlooking the river

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Saturday night, we headed into downtown Chiang Rai to their Saturday Night Market.  We LOVED this market.  THIS is how a night market should be.  There were tons of food stands and treats we’d never seen before.  And there was  live music happening in a town square with dancing.  Of course Mara and I joined in the circle dance and got lots of smiles from the locals as we joined them.

Sunday was a big day, so after loading up at the breakfast buffet at the Le Meridian, it was off for our border run.

We began by driving the 1:30 from Chiang Rai to Mae Sai, Thailand.  Then we left Thailand, walked across a bridge to Myanmar, did a bit of window shopping and headed back to Thailand.

From there, it was a short 30 minute drive to the Golden Triangle area.  After checking into our hotel, we headed to the river and took our boat trip over to Don Sao island, Laos.  2 new countries in 1 day.  SCORE!!

After the Laos trip, we wandered around the Golden Triangle area for a bit, ate dinner then off to bed after a long, long day.

The next morning we ate breakfast, then drove the 5 hours back to Chiang Mai.  We stopped a few times for some pictures, lunch and took a brief spin thru the White Temple again.

Scenery in Northern Thailand
Scenery in Northern Thailand
Rice paddy in Northern Thailand
Rice paddy in Northern Thailand
Rice in a rice paddy
Rice in a rice paddy

Then after 3 days of traveling around, we were safely back home and were good for another 59 days in Thailand before we needed to do border run #2.

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