Iceland

Europe Iceland

3 Fantastic Days in Iceland

View of Reykjavik from the top of the Hallgrímskirkja Church

I traveled to Reykjavik after 2 great days in Copenhagen on the free stopover deal on WOW Air.  I arrived at my hotel, the CenterHotel Plaza, around 4pm quite hungry as I missed lunch again while traveling.  After dropping my things, I walked about 5 minutes to the harbor to the Saegreifinn (Sea Baron) restaurant for their world famous lobster soup.  I had just watched a Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern where they showed how it was made, so I had been looking forward to it.  Unfortunately, I only give it a “meh”.  It was good, but not great.  I was still glad to try it though and enjoyed the experience as well.

Lobster soup at Saegreifinn

After relaxing at the hotel, I went out for a proper dinner of fish and chips.  I tried Ling which made for a pretty good fish and chips.

Then it was time to head out on my Northern Lights tour!  I returned after midnight and had to immediately get to sleep as I had early morning the next day going on my Golden Circle tour.

I returned from the tour around 5:30pm and quickly headed out for a meal of Plokkfiskur which is a fish, potato, and cheese gratin.

Plokkfiskur with rye bread

Then it was time to explore downtown Reykjavik so I walked one of the main streets up to Hallgrímskirkja Church then walked back on Laugavegur, the main shopping street.

Skólavörðustígur street
Hallgrímskirkja Church

That night I didn’t have any plans so I went to a bar across the street from my hotel, Micro Bar, and had a local, Icelandic beer – very good – before getting some sleep.

The next morning I finally got to sleep in and have a casual breakfast at the hotel as my next excursion didn’t leave till noon.  Unfortunately there was a bit of a snafu with getting picked up for my Blue Lagoon excursion.  I stupidly waited inside (but looking out) as I had done for my 2 other tours because it was freezing rain outside.  But these guys didn’t stop at my hotel and stopped down the street at a bus stop.  When I checked in with the front desk, they told me about waiting at the bus stop and I was told to take the taxi to the bus terminal for the main bus to the Blue Lagoon.  Luckily there was a taxi out front who raced me there in time, but then my credit cards wouldn’t work for some strange reason.  He actually let me go without paying as I didn’t have any cash either, so I was able to make my bus in time.  I almost cried when he told me to go – what a nice person!  Phew!

The bus trip takes about 50 minutes to the Blue Lagoon and it’s great to see the topography along the way.

The Blue Lagoon is awesome!  It’s definitely an experience.  You have to shower naked before getting dressed and going down, but they do have private showers and they give you a towel so it wasn’t a big deal.  They also have an indoor pool that goes outside so you don’t have to walk outside in the freezing cold to get in.

The water is so warm, it’s like crawling into a fantastically huge bath.

First stop was making my way to the face mask bar and slathering myself with the silica mud.  It was awesome seeing everyone walking around with their faces covered in white goop!  Of course I was the only person without their phone taking selfies, so I don’t have any pictures to share.  Once you’ve let the mask set, you rinse off, then do the algae mask, which is a green/gray goop this time!

While that was working on my wrinkles, I swam all around the place then up to the swim up bar.  My ticket included a drink so I opted for a glass of Prosecco which I enjoyed while sitting on a bench in the lagoon.

At this point, it was freezing rain on us and the wind was brutal on our faces so it was starting to get a bit unpleasant.  I also was feeling really off that day since I’d been sick the entire trip, so I decided to leave the lagoon after only 45 minutes or so.  Once dry and warm, I was able to get a snack before taking the bus back to my hotel.

Then it was time for an insanely late lunch of grilled scallops back at the Saegreifinn, before wandering around the downtown some more.  Later I went out for a steak sandwich to The Laundromat Cafe, which is exactly as it sounds, a laundromat with an attached cafe.  Even though I didn’t do laundry, the food was delicious so it was worth going.

The next morning it was raining out, but there was still one thing left I wanted to do – go up to the top of the Hallgrímskirkja Church.  Even though it was about 10:30am and the sun had just risen, it was still so dark and gray because of the rain.  It was still really cool to see Reykjavik in all directions!

Hallgrímskirkja Church

The inside of the church is really cool too with this amazing pipe organ.  An organist came in and was playing the organ so I sat and listened to him for a while before heading back.

Inside of Hallgrímskirkja Church

Then it was time to pack up and head to the airport for my flight back to the US.  I was sad to leave Iceland, but also looking forward to returning home as I’d missed Chuck and the kids so much.

All in all, I really enjoyed my time in Iceland.  When I arrived, the land near the airport reminded me of the Big Island except covered in snow.  Parts of it looked as expected and parts of it didn’t.  It was also pretty chilly, but not nearly as bad as I worried, I guess because I was dressed for it.  It was also wonderful to get out in nature and see pristine land, breathe the clean air, and drink the pure water.  I definitely loved my time there and was glad I finally made it to this Bucket List destination.

Iceland from the air
Some land on my flight back to the US
Greenland?
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The Beautiful Golden Circle Tour of Iceland

Faxi waterfall at sunrise

One of the most popular tours in Iceland is the Golden Circle tour.  It combines waterfalls, landscape, geysers, and more on an all day trip around the eastern part of Iceland.

I was picked up at 8:30am despite it still being dark outside (the sun doesn’t rise this time of year till 10:15am), and we got on our way around 9am.  We drove about 45 minutes to the town of Hveragerð which is built on a hot spring field.  We stopped at a rest stop for about 15 minutes for a bathroom and coffee break before heading out.  There was an earthquake in 2008 that split the floor at the rest stop.  Instead of fixing it, they put plexiglass over it so you could see into the crack in the earth.  Kind of cool.

From there, we headed east about an hour to Faxi waterfall.  We stopped along the way to get pictures of the sunrise as it was too beautiful to miss.

Sunrise around 10:15am

Upon arriving at Faxi waterfalls, we were given crampons to use while walking on the icy ground.  They were invaluable as we would’ve been slipping around like the other tourists.  We only stayed maybe 20 minutes which was plenty of time to take in the falls.

Faxi waterfall

From there it was another good hour or so to our next stop – Gullfoss waterfall!  Here we were dropped off below and then walked up to get a view from a higher vantage point.  It was beautiful, but quite cold, so after about 45 minutes I was grateful for the shop at the top to warm up!

Then it was time to head to Geysir for lunch and to see the geysers there.  The English word geyser comes from the Great Geysir here.  The Great Geysir no longer erupts, but the Strokkur geyser erupts every 4-7 minutes.

I was so hungry that I grabbed a quick lunch of delicious meatballs, before heading out to see the geyser.

Strokkur geyser
Strokkur geyser

There are also boiling mud pits steaming all along the landscape.

Once back on the minibus, we headed to Thingvellir (Þingvellir) National Park which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This was the site I was most looking forward to seeing.  The site is a rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates where you literally get to walk between continents.  The plates here are drifting apart at about 2cm a year and the rift valley is 7km wide between the 2 plates.

We arrived on the Eurasian plate, then headed onto the rift valley.  We were left off at the bottom on the opposite side so we could hike up to the North American plate.  First though, I hiked up to a cool waterfall, Öxarárfoss . We were told that the water comes from a glacier and it takes about 70 years for the water to flow to the waterfall and down to the lake making it some of the clearest, cleanest water you can get.  Our guide told us to fill up our water bottles from the waterfall so we could enjoy the water.

Water from the Öxarárfoss waterfall
Öxarárfoss waterfall
Hiking up to Öxarárfoss waterfall
The edge of the North American tectonic plate

I then walked up the path to the North American plate.  I was so glad to have the crampons again as it would’ve been quite slippery without them.  Along the way we passed The Alþing (Althing) which is the original national parliament of Iceland.  It was started in 930 making it the oldest parliamentary institution in the world (it has since been moved to Reykjavik).

Alþing/Althing parliament site

Once at the top, we had a fantastic view of the rift valley.  You could even see the dark edge of the start of the Eurasian plate across the continental drift.

Rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates
Rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates

It was now about 4pm and time to head back to Reykjavik, a trip that took about an hour.

Along the way, we made a quick stop off to see some Icelandic horses up close.  They came right over to us and were so beautiful and fuzzy and sweet.  I wanted to take one home with me!

Icelandic horse. So fuzzy!!

I’m so glad I went on this tour.  Not only did I get to see some of the Iceland landscape, but I got to see some beautiful sites too.  It was great to get out in nature and breathe in the clean air and see the pristine snow covered land.

I took my tour with GeoIceland and they did a great job.  Our guide, Siggi, was excellent and added enough information to enrich the day.  Our tour was only maybe 12-15 people which made it more personal and gave us more flexibility at the sites.

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Seeing the Magical Northern Lights in Iceland

Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland

I’ve wanted to see the Northern Lights for as long as I can remember.  Every year I’d see the cheap deals to Iceland and want to book a trip to see them, but never did.   This year, however, I finally took the plunge and bought one of the crazy deals from WOW Air to see Copenhagen and hopefully see the Aurora Borealis in Iceland.

I booked the Disco Northern Lights minibus tour with Discover Iceland for my first night in Reykjavik.  If you don’t see the lights the first night, they’ll let you go out another night for free so this left me with 2 more chances to see them if the first night didn’t work.

As soon as we left the lights of Reykjavik, our guide, Thor, pointed out the start of the Aurora Borealis out the windows of the minibus.  He opted to take us near the mountains only 20-30 minutes out of town as we could already see them.

On the way, Thor told us exactly how to set our DSLR cameras, so we were prepared to take pictures as soon as we arrived.

Once I got out of the minibus, the lights were on full display.  I couldn’t believe my luck!

The interesting thing is that they don’t look exactly like they do in the pictures.  They’re more white wispiness with occasional colors.  They’re still spectacular and I felt so lucky to finally see them with my own eyes.

Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland
Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland
Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland

Thor helped me set up a tripod and I started snapping picture after picture.  In the meantime, he took a bunch of pictures which he later shared with us.  He also took pictures of each of us in front of the lights by having us stand frozen for about 10 seconds then briefly flashing a light on us.  What an amazing keepsake!

Unfortunately, none of my pictures turned out well at all – I think my focus wasn’t set right but it also appears my tripod kept moving so they ended up blurry.

Here are my best shots 🙁

The stars were also incredible that night and Jupiter was so bright it was like a tiny moon in the sky.

Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland
At least some of my star pictures turned out ok

After about an hour, Thor broke out the hot cocoa and cookies to help warm us as we stood in the 14°F cold.  My hands and feet started to get quite cold, but I didn’t care as I took in the beauty of nature around me.

We stayed in the same spot for about 1:30 before finally calling it quits and heading back to Reykjavik.  We could see the lights on the trip back and they started to get even more incredible, so Thor pulled off for a brief view.  As soon as I got out of the bus, the lights were a brilliant green and were lighting up a huge section of the sky.  They were even more magical than what we saw earlier and I think I stood there with my mouth open uttering “wow” as I just couldn’t believe what I was seeing.  I swear those images are forever sealed in my memory.

I got back to my hotel a bit after midnight still pinching myself.

I highly recommend Discover Iceland especially after talking to other travelers that went on the big bus trips.  They didn’t have nearly the same experience, didn’t get help with their cameras, didn’t get their picture taken, and didn’t get the guide’s pictures emailed to them later.  Also, while we were out there alone, they were somewhere else with 100s of others.  They definitely made the experience even greater.

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