Favorite Moments

Asia Japan North Korea South Korea

Top Japan Trip Experiences

Top Trip Experiences

Mara

Favorites:

The kids loved their crepes
  • Drum Game in the arcades
The Drum Game
  • Seoul Night Market & the dried strawberries
Potato on a stick!
  • Yuzu Honey Drink in Kyoto

    Yuzu & mango honey drinks

Least Favorite Things:

  • All the Walking
  • Ramen Class
  • Robot Restaurant
  • Beckett talking about Duck & a new Gaming Computer
  • Taxi to the Seoul airport

Beckett

Favorites:

  • Otters
  • Ninja Class
  • Ninja Restaurant, especially the magic show
  • Korean Spa
  • Gear Show
  • Universal Studios Japan
  • Onsen, especially the leg massage
  • 3D Light Experience
  • Ramen Class
  • Korean Sweet Class
  • Drum Game in the arcades
  • Winning mini duck
He finally won Mini Duck!
  • Seoul Night Market & the cheese sticks
  • Arcades
  • Kyoto Rental House

Least Favorite Things:

  • Not winning Big Duck
  • All the Walking
  • Flight Home

Chuck

Favorites:

Least Favorite Things:

  • Mara & Beckett in the back of the taxi
Fun in the back of a taxi
  • Legs hurting from too much walking in Tokyo

Kirsten

Favorites:

  • DMZ/North Korea
  • 3D Light Experience
  • Onsen
  • Ninja Class
  • Otters
  • Seoul Night Market
  • Kyoto especially walking around Gion
  • Universal Studios Japan
  • Walking around Sannenzaka & Ninenzaka near Kiyomizu-dera temple in Kyoto

Least Favorite Things:

  • Finding food that worked for everyone
  • Beckett talking about a new gaming computer the whole trip
  • My Jaw Issues
  • The Last Act of the Robot Restaurant Show where I got really sick
Asia Japan

Dotonbori Fun and Hogwarts in Osaka

The travel show that was the catalyst for our trip to Japan featured the Dōtonbori area of Osaka.  The store fronts had large octopus or crabs or other huge displays above the entrance and the place seemed amazing.  So there was no way we were coming to Japan and not at least seeing this place!

Even though there is plenty to see in Osaka, we only allotted about 24 hours to it as we were crunched for time trying to fit everything else in.  Our original plan was to arrive around 10am, drop our bags at the hotel, try some fun food along the Dōtonbori, then visit the Osaka aquarium to see whale sharks, return to the Dōtonbori and surrounds for dinner & window shopping, then head to bed.

Previously, I mentioned to the kids that there was an Universal Studio in Osaka and the kids didn’t really care about going.  However, when I mentioned it again a couple of days before going to Osaka, the kids jumped at the chance to go.  I hated giving up seeing whale sharks, but I thought visiting a theme park would be more fun and give everyone, especially the kids, a break from sightseeing.  I secretly really wanted to revisit Harry Potter World, so I was pretty happy.

So the first part started off the same by checking out of our Kyoto airbnb, then taking a train to Osaka, then dropping our bags at the hotel before walking around the Dōtonbori area.

First up was trying takoyaki which are fried octopus balls which we’d seen on the travel show.  We weren’t fans at all, so they quickly went in the garbage.  Boo.

Takoyaki

Then we wandered around checking out the cool displays and hunting for lunch.  I really wanted to try okonomiyaki which is a savory Japanese pancake with cabbage, but I never found a place that was open.

The Dōtonbori area was fantastic though!

I thought we’d have an easy time finding lunch, but it proved really difficult to find something for all 4 of us.  Eventually we found a place that was an ok choice, then headed to Universal Studios Japan!

The weather was scheduled to rain all afternoon, but I thought we should risk it.  It turned out to be hot and sunny and never rained.  In fact, we ended up buying sunscreen as we were going to get sunburned if we didn’t lather up!  Good thing we didn’t let weather stop us!

Universal was so much fun.  I LOVE Harry Potter World and it was so much fun to visit again.  First up was perusing Honeydukes then grabbing a butterbeer.

Butterbeer!

Then we headed for Hogwarts and the Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ride.  I decided to skip it this time as it made me so nauseous last time.  I was so sad to miss out, but it seemed for the best.  The wait was crazy long, but there was a way to still tour Hogwarts so I did that while Chuck and the kids waited in line.  Then I strolled around Hogsmeade and had a great time.

Inside Hogwarts
Dumbledore’s office

Once we were back together, we grabbed a snack at the Three Broomsticks.  And after some more strolling around Hogsmeade, we headed out to explore the rest of the park.

The kids were able to ride a few rides, and we had a great time walking around and taking it all in.  Our legs were ready to fall off at this point so we took breaks when we could, yet we still had a good time.

We ended up staying to watch the parade which was cooler than I expected.

With the park now closed, we made our way back to the Dotonbori and got to see it all lit up at night.

We dropped the exhausted kids back at the hotel to shower while Chuck and I went back out to explore the area more.  Unfortunately it was closing time and the stores were all shutting down, so we went back to the hotel too.

The next morning we had breakfast then headed to the airport for our trip to South Korea.

And that wraps up our time in Japan!

P.S. I noticed the manhole covers in Japan were really cool.  The ones in Osaka in particular were painted in addition to having neat artwork.

Asia Japan

Ramen Class in Kyoto

Anyone that knows Beckett, knows that his favorite food is noodles.  Specifically Japanese noodles like ramen and udon.  So it was an absolute must that we take a noodle making class while in Japan!

We took a class with Ramen Factory in Kyoto.  The class was fantastic.  They walked us through every stage of making our own noodles, cooking chicken, flavoring our own soup broth, and then getting to enjoy our creations.

After getting cleaned up and our aprons and handkerchiefs on, we started cooking.

First up was using some cooking twine to tie up some chicken pieces and then they put them in the oven to cook.

Then it was time to make our noodle dough.  The first step was sifting the flour, then mixing it with salt and water.

Sifting flour

Then it was time to soften the dough by punching it repeatedly for a long time.

Next up was putting the dough through a pasta roller a few times to turn it into long, flat sheets.

The next step was so much fun as we got to use the pasta machine to cut the dough into long ramen noodles.

Look at our trays of fresh ramen noodles!

We then got our cooked chicken back and cut it into bite sized chunks before using a torch to flambe the outside of the chicken.  I think this was one of the highlights for the kids.  Maybe not so much for Chuck.

I love Chuck’s body language as Mara uses the torch

At this point, we took our noodles over the cooking station.  Here we were given a rundown of the different soup bases and were allowed to mix and match the different flavors to make our own custom soup flavor.  I think we all ended up with a different combo.

Then we cooked our noodles.  This involved putting them into a mesh basket, and stirring them in hot water for a minute.


Then we dumped them into our bowls, added our soup bases and soup broth, and returned to our table for the finishing touches.

After adding the chicken and condiments, it was finally time to eat!!  OMG was it delicious.  The noodles were so good and fresh and it was one of the better ramens I’ve ever had.

Kirsten’s ramen
Mara’s ramen

Once we were done eating, we decided that we just had to buy a souvenir bowl to bring home and a t-shirt for Beckett especially since their slogan is pretty much Beckett’s mantra: “No Ramen No Life”.

Once we came home, Beckett started using their ramen recipe to make his own ramen.  For Christmas he got an electric pasta roller and noodle cutter and has continued to make his own fresh ramen.

Asia Japan

Playing with Otters!

Japan popularized the animal cafe so I was hoping we’d get to visit one while we were there.  Unfortunately, at many, the animals aren’t treated well so I wasn’t sure if I’d find one that I could feel OK about visiting.  And then I found an otter cafe in Kyoto!  We love otters, especially Beckett and I.  I did some research on the cafe and it seemed like a good place – the animals are the owners pets, they rotate them so they have limited time with people, and they seemed healthy and treated well.

I didn’t tell the kids about this place at all as I wanted it to be a surprise.  I also knew if I told Beckett that he’d drag us there as soon as we arrived in Kyoto.

After our ninja class and snack, the kids wanted to go back to the rental, but this is when I planned to visit.  The kids realized something was up and spent the entire walk there trying to guess what we were doing and badgering me to tell them.

Beckett saw the sign first and then got so excited that he was going to get to play with otters!  Unfortunately they were booked up, but we were able to get a spot a little later.

When you arrive, you first wash your hands, then are allowed to enter.  You put your belongings in a locker and then have a seat.  They have 2 otters out at a time and they just run around, eat, play, and rest while we observe.  You’re not allowed to pick them up, but at points, they’d give us food and let us feed them.

They also have a giant water tank where 1 or 2 otters would be swimming and playing, plus a huge room with a glass wall where there were other otters and no people, so you could watch them play, snack, and sleep too.

The experience was amazing.  They’re so fun and playful! And they eat so cute – they grab the food off your hand like their paws are hands then feed themselves.



We only had about 45 minutes as we had to get to the GEAR show.  But we came back the next day and spent the full hour with them.

The kids both put the experience in the top 3 of things we did on our trip so I’d say it was a definite win!

Asia Japan

Ninja Training

There was no way we were coming to Japan and not taking a ninja class.  Ninja stars?!?  Swords?!?  Cool outfits?!?  Yes, please!

We took a 1-hour lesson with the Ninja Dojo and Store, although it ran longer than an hour.  Luckily it was just the 4 of us at this lesson, so we got to really enjoy the experience as a family.

After getting suited up and getting some pictures, we first learned some Japanese and then the ninja training began.

One of the first things we learned was how to walk like a ninja.  Ninjas primarily work in the dark so they not only have to be quiet, but know how to avoid obstacles.  This is done by pointing your toe and gently touching it to where you want to step.  If something is in your way, you’ll discover it before putting any body weight down and can then search for an alternative path.  Very sneaky.

Walking like a ninja

Then we learned how to enter a secret door and come out quietly.  Some of us were more graceful than others at this and we had a good time practicing.

Mara about to disappear behind a hidden door

After learning a couple more things, it was time for the Ninja Swords!  We not only learned the difference between a Ninja sword and a Samurai sword, but also why it has a string on it.  We then learned how to properly pull it out of its sheath, how to wield it, and then how to re-sheath it when done.

Don’t we look menacing??!

After a bunch of practicing, it was time to take on a bad guy.  First we did our ninja walk and once the bad guy was detected, we stabbed him then put our sword away.  We had a great time doing this part!

Chuck about to attack a “bad guy”

Next we got a rundown on different Ninja weapons and when they’d use them.  First up for us to learn was Ninja Stars (Shuriken)!  We all picked it up fairly quickly and (mostly) hit the target.  Chuck was a bit scary with how good he was at it.



Next up was learning to throw chopsticks.  Yes, chopsticks.  Sometimes a ninja has to use whatever is available, so we saw how an innocent chopstick could be used as a weapon.  This was a little more hit or miss, however, I was quite good at it.  One of mine ended up embedded in the tatami mat though which was pretty funny.


The last weapon was the blowgun.  Chuck and the kids did well at this, but I struggled to blow enough air since I was battling all my jaw issues and it had been so painful on the trip.  I still was able to do a couple, but then gave the rest of mine to the kids.  It was still fun though!


Sadly our lesson was over so we took some final pictures, took off our cool ninja clothes, did some shopping (a metal Shuriken for us, some rubber Shurikens for Beckett) and headed out.

The ninja class was so much fun and one of the funnest activities we did on our entire trip.  We had a blast dressing up, weilding swords, throwing Shuriken, posing for pictures, and laughing as we messed up or did well.  It was definitely an experience I won’t forget.

Asia Japan

Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto

On our first morning in Kyoto, we took a taxi to the pedestrian streets leading up to the Kiyomizu-dera Temple complex.  We had a great time popping into the shops on the walk up to the temple.  Many shops had samples so we were able to try so many Japanese desserts and snacks and even bought a few souvenirs such as “cat”.  We ended up buying many of the snacks we tried including these delicious matcha white chocolate cookies from the Malebranche store shown below.

After about an hour, we finally made it up to Kiyomizu-dera Temple.  The Temple was founded in 778, however, the buildings were constructed in 1633.  Before we walked up to the temple, we stopped by the bathrooms and discovered this really cool cemetery.

The temple structures were both bold and intricate, really fascinating just to sit and take in.

Its neat that many visitors to the temple dress up in traditional clothes.  I loved seeing everyone dressed up!

It cost extra to go into one of the buildings so Chuck and the kids found a seat while I went to explore.  Little did we realize that it wasn’t just the building that I had access to, but the entire rest of the complex.  I ended up being gone far longer than expected, but it was such a treat to see everything.  Unfortunately without working cell service, I couldn’t text them to come meet me, and by the time I was back, they were ready to move on.

We explored a little more of the complex together.  Since we were set so high up, we had a great vantage point to look down on Kyoto and surrounds too.

Great view of Kyoto from the temple complex

We took a branch off the the main pedestrian street on our walk down from the temple onto what I think is Sannenzaka street.  We found a great little place for lunch that had a soft tofu lunch which Kyoto is famous for.  Lunch was not cheap, but was delicious!

Restaurant
Beckett’s tofu lunch

Description of Beckett’s lunch
My lunch – so good!

We then spent another couple of hours checking out the shops on what I think was Sannenzaka and Ninnenzaka streets.  Chuck disappeared at some point and I found a shop giving out samples of this yuzu honey drink.  O.M.G. was this stuff good!  I called the kids over and we tried so many flavors of their honey drinks – blueberry, mango, raspberry, and on and on.  We bought some to drink then, but also containers to drink at home which we slowly rationed over the next 6 months.

Yuzu & mango honey drinks

After gorging ourselves on yummy drink samples, we found Chuck in a nearby shop eating some weird ball things.  I tried one and quickly regretted my decision.

And on it went.  Walking into shops, trying samples, seeing a cool pagoda or shrine, walking more, popping into another shop.

What a great sign!

We eventually found the world’s coolest Starbucks:

Starbucks

Unfortunately there was quite a line and we didn’t feel like waiting, so we decided to head back to the rental.  All told, I think we were out for over 6 hours and were absolutely wrecked once we got back.  Despite the long day, this was one of the (many) highlights of our time in Kyoto for me.  I loved the traditional feel of the streets and even though I’m not much of a shopper, I loved exploring all the shops and what they had to offer.  I was hoping we’d get a chance to come back before we left Kyoto to pick up some more souvenirs, but we never did.  I’ll just have to do that next time!

Asia Japan

A Relaxing Afternoon at a Japanese Onsen

One of Chuck’s friends went to Japan the year before we did, and posted pictures at this Japanese Onsen Theme Park.  The experience looked so cool so it quickly got put at the top of Chuck’s Bucket List for our trip.

The Onsen, Ooedo-Onsen Monogatari, bills itself as one of Japan’s largest Onsen Theme Parks.  The place consists of a various hot baths, a street food section, and outdoor section and more.

When you first arrive, you check in and drop your shoes in a locker.  From there, you select your yukata before heading to the locker rooms.  There you find your assigned locker, take off everything except your underwear, and use the instructions on the wall to put on your yukata.  And then its time to go explore!

It was so cool that everyone wears one of the assigned yukatas the entire time they’re there.  They did take a little getting used to especially the first time I sat down, but we all got a kick out of wearing them around.

I loved the back of our yukatas

It was well after 2pm at this point, so the first order of business was lunch!  We checked out each of the many street food restaurants and I think we all ended up with food from a different restaurant.

Street Food Restaurant area. There was another even bigger section too!
Lunch

After lunch, we decided we needed treats since they had so many yummy choices.

Massive shaved ice for Beckett

Then it was time to explore the facility.  We ended up going outside to this really serene area with foot baths.  It was so nice and peaceful.

Family enjoying the foot bath

The kids really wanted to use the fish spa like they had in Thailand.  It cost extra, but it was totally worth it especially to watch Beckett giggle and squirm.

Fish Spa

We noticed that prices for leg massages were pretty reasonable, so we decided to splurge on 30 minute leg massages for the entire family.  We booked a time about an hour later and went to the actual onsen (baths) while we waited.

This part is where it gets weird.  The Japanese use the baths naked.  Completely naked.  The men and women are split into different sections, but still.  We each grappled with whether we wanted to partake in this, and each decided “When in Rome…”.

The first thing you do is get a locker to put all your clothes into.  You’re given a hand towel and a washcloth and that’s all you are allowed to take into the baths.  When you enter, you’re supposed to rinse off and then you can go into any bath you want for as long as you want.  The baths ranged from cold to lukewarm to blazing hot.  There is even an open air natural hot spring outside.  I did feel awkward at the start, but pretty quickly realized no one was really paying attention to me and that this is normal for them, so I just went with it.

Once done, there is a section of little tables and stools with various soaps and a hose where you can sit and clean yourself.  When you’ve had enough, its time to shower and get dressed in your yukata.  Unfortunately, I didn’t notice my main locker room key in the spa’s locker and left it.  I realized pretty quickly that I didn’t have it and went back only to find my locker already taken by someone else.  Despite the language difference, I was able to explain to the locker room attendants what happened and they put a note on the locker asking the person to return my key.  I had to wait till after my massage was over to find out if I got my key back and was so worried that the person would use it to open my locker and steal my stuff.  Luckily the locker room staff had it and I could breathe a big sigh of relief.

Back to the massage.  We all met up after our onsen experiences and were taken to this massive room with many massage tables set up side by side.  We each got a 30 minute leg massage that was glorious.  Each masseuse did things differently, but we all had a wonderful experience and it really soothed our tired legs.  Beckett was even talking about it long after we got home.

It was somewhere around 6pm at this point and we decided it was time for a snack.  So back to the food court we went for snacks and treats.  We even got some arcade time in and wandered the little shops.

Mario Kart plus the kids got to play the drum game again here!

It was nearly 8pm when we finally left.  None of us wanted to go as it was such a relaxing place and it was so nice to slow down after all our busy days in Tokyo.  But we were heading to Kyoto the next morning and needed to get home to pack and get some sleep before our big travel day.

If you go to Tokyo, I highly recommend visiting this onsen.  Its such a unique experience, but also a nice oasis from the big city.

Asia Japan

3D Digital Art Museum

“Forest of Lamps”

We went to the teamLab Borderless Digital Art Museum in Odaiba, Tokyo.  They have a few different art installations, but I picked this one because it looked mind blowing.  I have to say it definitely lived up to the hype.  This really was one of the coolest museums any of us have ever experienced.

You have to get tickets ahead of time as it usually sells out, but even with tickets, there is a wait to get in.  We waited maybe 20-30 minutes before we got in.  I was happy that I’d looked at the website as there were no maps or directions inside so it wasn’t obvious where to go or how to find things.  Plus it’s very dark especially in between the rooms.  But because I knew of certain rooms, I knew to keep wandering hallways and staircases until we found everything.

I’m also glad I read the online reviews that said to wear a white shirt and light pants as you’ll blend into the art better.  I told the rest of the family, but was pretty much ignored (in their defense, I don’t know that any of them brought white shirts on the trip).

We first entered a long, dark hallway before emerging into a long room with light projections of flowers on every wall.  It was incredible to be immersed in the space.

“Forest of Flowers and People”

After exiting that room, we entered a huge room with a rainfall that was really cool.

“Universe of Water Particles on a Rock Where People Gather”

Next we entered a room that consisted of hundreds of lights dancing in different patterns.  We spent a long time in this room mesmerized by the choreographed lights.

And then we went up some stairs and discovered one of the coolest rooms we’ve ever seen, “The Forest of Lamps”.  There was a wait to get in as it’s quite popular and  once inside, you only have a couple of minutes max to enjoy it.  There is one way glass though, so you can watch the lamps transform from color to color while you wait which was amazing in and of itself.

Our time in the room was way too short, but it is still so vivid in my mind and one of the highlights from our entire trip.

Next up we found the Crystal  World.  The crystals are laid out in a maze so you have to follow the the cutouts as you wind your way through.  Once we were ready to leave, we couldn’t find the exit and had to keep wandering paths until we finally found doors.  The crystals changed colors and patterns so it was constantly changing.

“Crystals World”

This is how it went for the next hour: Opening one door to discover a room then leave and find another room then walk up a staircase and find yet another room or a balcony into a room and on and on.

We were getting a bit hungry at this point as it was around lunchtime, but I knew we were missing one of the cooler rooms I’d seen online.  Eventually we found a tall staircase and at the top was the “Athletics Forest”.  Its a massive room with a planet trampoline, undulating floors with various sea creatures, a side alcove with a slide, another few side alcoves with lights or activities, and a room of giant balloon lights in the back.  I don’t even know how to describe what it was like being in there.

“Athletics Forest”
I loved the massive whales swimming on the walls and floor

The kids started by jumping on the trampoline while Chuck and I explored.  He noticed you could interact with the water droplets coming down the pillars which was fun to play with.

“Multi Jumping Universe”

Waterfall Droplets

Then we discovered the drawing center.  Here they had various creatures you could color in.  Then they would scan it and your creature would show up on the walls and floor and crawl around.  We had a great time finding our creature and following them around the room.  Stepping on them would cause them to smash briefly before they’d be fine and start crawling around again.

Mara’s Crocodile
Mara with her invention!

My iguana:

We spent over an hour in the area enjoying the room, its alcoves, and all the activities.

“Weightless Forest of Resonating Light”

“A Musical Wall where Little People Live” – This was really cool as there were little digital people that would interact with whatever you built!
“A Table where Little People Live”
“Aerial Climbing through a Flock of Colored Birds”

At the back of the Athletics Forest we found the Sketch Aquarium which was like the main room in that you could color a sea creature, scan it in, and watch it come to life.  I loved this room – it made me so happy!

My happy little jellyfish!

Beckett’s fish with a black cat on it

As the kids played in some of the rooms, I went to the main room and realized the floor and walls were responding to me.  As I stood still, the water droplets moved around my feet and a garden started to grow.  Then I sat down and watched a garden grow on my legs.

After a good hour and a half in the Athletics Forest, we decided it was time to go.  On our way out, we walked through one last room and took our last photos.

All of us were blown away by the experience.  None of us wanted to leave, but our legs were tired and we were so hungry.  Plus, we were headed to the onsen next and needed to make sure we had enough time for that.

I really hope this museum comes to the US sometime as all of us would go back in a heartbeat.

Asia Japan

Tokyo – Ninja Restaurant

One “must do” in Tokyo is to visit a theme restaurant.  There are so many choices from maid cafes to prison themed restaurants to monster cafes.  I settled on visiting the Ninja Restaurant in Shinjuku as it seemed like a cool experience all of us would enjoy.

I booked us one of the 9-course menus so we’d get to experience everything, one 6 course adult meal, and two 6 course kids meals.  We also went at lunch, however, it was still quite expensive.  It was worth it, though!

Upon arrival, we removed our shoes and were lead back to a small, private room.  After receiving our drinks, the meal began.

Our first course arrived in a smoking ship which so visually entertaining.

Super cool smoking ship with our first course

Then it was onto a sushi course.

Sushi

The next two courses were some seafood dish served in a large shell and a flaming bowl where we each got charcoal briquettes from the fire.  The charcoal turned out to be chicken covered in a gray, crunchy coating.  It was not only a trick of the eye, but delicious.

“Charcoal briquettes”

The kids then got their main meal.

For our next course, Chuck and I both got a smoking box that we had to unwrap.  After opening it and waiting for the smoke to clear, we were greeted with a really interesting plate of flowers, vegetables, and seafood.

Next up was our main course which was chicken for me and steak for Chuck accompanied by roasted vegetables.  They came with a side of spices that elevated the meat to another level.

Finally it was time for the grand finale: Dessert!  I made sure not to tell the kids about this part as I wanted them to be surprised.

Edible bonsai

Yes, that is an edible bonsai tree in edible dirt.  I can’t even describe what it tasted like, but suffice it to say that it was delicious and hands down one of the coolest desserts I’ve ever had in my life!

After the meal was over, we were joined by a close-up magician who performed many tricks at the table right in front of us.  We were asked not to take pictures so I don’t have any to share.  The magic was amazing though and we were stunned to watch all the tricks happen in front of our noses.   I still have no idea how he did it!  As if the meal wasn’t enough, this was the icing on the cake.

Once the show was over, it was time to leave.  We were there for a good 3 hours, but left happy and delighted with the whole experience.

 

Estonia Europe

Fairy Tale Tallinn, Estonia

Picture Walt Disney building a medieval town and you get Tallinn .  It’s straight out of a fairy tale!  Cobble stone pedestrian only streets, check.  Town walls you can walk on, check.  A massive square, check.  Neat restaurants with outdoor seating, check.  It almost seems fake, but in a good way.

We arrived around 1pm after our 4 hour bus trip from Riga.  The bus station is miles out of town so we had to taxi to the Old Town then walk into the town as its completely closed to traffic.  We had time to eat, outside as the weather continued to be gorgeous our entire visit, before we met up with our Airbnb host.  She took us to our rental and we promptly dropped our bags before heading out for a free walking tour of the old town.

Our bus from Riga to Tallinn
Viru Gate – entrance to the old town. We ate lunch at the outdoor restaurant on the right.
Outside the Viru Gate

The tour, while informative, wasn’t that great.  Our guide talked way too much, however, he did take us all around the far side of the old town where we saw the Kiek in de Kok, the Maiden’s Tower, past the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, and to viewing platforms that overlooked the city.

Kiek in the Kok

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

From there we walked down the town walls and into the lower old town before finishing in Town Hall Square.

Viewing platform from below
Town Hall Square
Another side of Town Hall Square

If you’ve been reading about our entire trip, you know that this would be the perfect time to stop for drinks and dessert!  We went to Troika (you can see it in one of the above pictures) and got a vodka sampler and crepe dessert.  Some of the vodkas were delicious, some were not, but it was still fun to try.  And combined with the atmosphere of the square and the perfect weather, it was a wonderful break from sightseeing!

Vodka sampler – cranberry, chokeberry, galangal, lemon, and I think pine nut

Then it was time to meander thru the rest of the old town.  We walked and walked exploring the other side of old town and tons of little streets.

We headed back to Troika for dinner as I was craving more authentic Beef Stroganoff.  When we got back to the square, they were projecting different movies on the side of the Town Hall to commemorate 100 years of the Republic of Estonia.  One showed the history of Estonia going back to the beginning of the earth, while another showcased current Estonian culture.  It was fantastic sitting outside eating and watching the show along with locals.

Movie projected on the Town Hall
Town Square lit up at night

Cute little street off the Town Square

The next morning we took a taxi to Kadriorg Palace a few miles from the old town.  This was single-handedly  the place I was most excited to see.  I’ve wanted to go to Russia my entire life to see the churches and palaces and here was a palace built by Peter the Great for his wife, Catherine.

The palace was very cool and disappointing at the same time.  The outside and grounds were nice, but most of the rooms inside were very bland and there weren’t really any furnishings.  The main hall was gorgeous though!

The palace now houses art and other artifacts, the most exciting being the Faberge eggs.  Unfortunately our pictures of them came out blurry so I don’t have any to share.

Kadriorg Palace

Getting back to old town proved harder than we expected as we couldn’t find a taxi at all.  We walked thru Kadriorg park to a busy intersection and still couldn’t find a single taxi.  Luckily after a bit, I spotted a taxi dropping off other tourists and was able to flag him down.  Phew.

Next up was visiting the KGB museum inside the Hotel Viru.  I was really excited to see this as well, however I didn’t realize you could only go as part of a set tour and you had to book them in advance.  So we showed up to find no open tours till much later and it just wasn’t going to work out.  Oops.  Although if this is the only thing I screwed up this trip, I don’t feel too bad.

So we decided to visit the Tallinn Town Wall which you can climb up and walk along.  This was actually pretty cool and gave another great vantage point to see the town.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in the background

Another part of the town wall

Across the street is St. Catherine’s passage which is thought to have been built over 700 years ago.  They also had some tombstones hanging on the wall dating as far back as 1388!

St. Catherine’s Passage
Tombstones dating as far back as 1388 on left wall

At this point both our legs were exhausted because we had walked for hours and hours every day.  If I’m being honest, I was actually in pain and trying not to cry because my legs and knees hurt so badly.  So what is the best cure for that?!?  Sitting to enjoy a coffee and dessert!

We stumbled into this chocolaterie in a little courtyard that had delicious desserts and was such an adorable place to enjoy a rest.  The cake was every bit as good as it looks.

So good!

After resting up, we decided to re-explore most of the old town again.  Why did I do this when I was already miserable?  I guess because I loved the town and wanted to see it as much as possible before we left.  I’m not very smart sometimes.  But it was cool to see the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral again, revisit the viewpoints, wander the cute little streets, and soak up the town as much as possible before stopping for dinner and a local beer and heading back to our rental.

Outdoor dinner spot

We tried to get to bed early that night as we had an 7:30am ferry the next morning and needed to be at the ferry dock by 6:30am.  Unfortunately I got about an hour of sleep as I was in agony all night and had one of my most miserable nights in recent memory.   Chuck’s legs weren’t feeling that great either as we really overdid the walking on this trip.  Luckily we were able to flag a taxi in the morning and were able to skip walking the couple of miles to the dock.

Despite this, I look back on Tallinn so fondly.  It was adorable and quaint and everything you’d want a medieval old town to be!

Europe Lithuania

2 Delicious Days in Vilnius, Lithuania

Wild mushroom soup in a bread bowl and Svyturio Baltijos beer (one of my favorite beers of all time!)

The more I researched what to do in Vilnius (and Riga and Tallinn), the more excited I got about the food.  This is pretty unusual as I’m not a foodie and while I love trying local foods on my travels, it’s not one of the things I’m most excited about.   I left Vilnius with it being one of my favorite food destinations in the entire world!  Sure it was adorable and had many more things to love, but it’s the food that I’m still dreaming about.

We arrived around midnight from Copenhagen and promptly took a taxi to our hotel, the Grotthuss Hotel, and went to bed.  After a lovely breakfast at our hotel the next morning, we headed out to explore the old town of Vilnius.

We wandered towards the Gates of Dawn and then down to the Hales Market where we explored the various food stalls and tried some of the local foods.

Gates of Dawn
Hales Market
Cepelinai – potato dumpling filled with mince. We both hated it. Very disappointing.
Delicious!  We got one stuffed with chicken and mushroom and just chicken.

After the market, we headed thru the old town to Cathedral Square.  The old town is so cute and I instantly fell in love with it.

Around Cathedral Square, we saw the Palace of the Grand Dukes, the Vilnius Cathedral, and Gediminas Tower perched on a hill above the town.  There were signs all over announcing that the Pope would be at Vilnius Cathedral a week after our visit and part of the sites were closed as they put up stands and prepared for his arrival.

Gediminas Tower
Vilnius Cathedral
Inside the Vilnius Cathedral

Room off the main chapel that was jaw droppingly beautiful

One highlight at Cathedral Square is the Stebuklas Miracle Tile.  In 1989, approximately 2 million people held hands from Tallinn, Estonia, thru Riga, Latvia, and ending at this spot in Vilnius to form the longest unbroken human chain in history as a protest to the Soviet government to restore their freedom.  It was pretty cool seeing the tile and thinking of that day back in 1989.

Stebuklas Miracle Tile

At this point it was getting pretty late in the day, but we had an hour or two till the Palace closed so we decided to pop in to check it out.  Overall it was pretty disappointing, but there were some neat artifacts such as books from (I think) the 1200s, a drinking vessel from Ivan the Terrible, and royal swords, thrones and other regalia.  There were also great views of Vilnius from the top.

Book that I think is from the 1200s

At this point we were starving, so we headed to this outdoor restaurant called Etno Dvaras on the main strip for a late lunch.  This is where we discovered food heaven.

I ordered a wild mushroom soup in a bread bowl and some potato pancakes with bacon, while Chuck got fried bread covered in a cheese sauce and some potato and cheese casserole.  I also ordered a local beer and it was hands down one of my favorite beers I’ve ever had in my life.  Chuck hates beer and he even kept stealing sips.  My food was delicious, but the fried bread with cheese was mind blowing.  I wish a beer pub around here served this as it was one of the best bar foods ever.

Fried bread with cheese
Potato pancakes

Earlier, Chuck had noticed a street market off of Cathedral Square so we headed over to check it out. There were a ton of booths selling everything from local foods to soap to crafts. And of course dried fish. There is always a fish stand that reeks.

Gingerbread from a local stand – it reminded me of the gingerbread from Oktoberfest. Sadly it was not good.
Fish. Lots of stinky fish… Walk away from the fish stand…

It was starting to get dark as we headed back to our hotel and we wandered into a local festival with live music.  As we got there, hot air balloons started drifting by which was pretty cool.  We sat and had a drink outside while listening to the various bands before heading back to the hotel for a quick rest.

For dinner, we headed back to Etno Dvaras and I had the best Beef Stroganoff I’ve ever had.

Beef Stroganoff

The next morning we headed to Trakai castle about 30 minutes away from old town Vilnius.  We elected to take a taxi as the public transportation logistics were kind of a nightmare, plus it didn’t cost that much more to go this route.

The castle was originally built in the 14th century and was one of the main centers of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.  The castle soon fell into disrepair, and was rebuilt in the last 100 or so years.  Even though it’s technically “new”, its still a neat place to visit and a beautiful location too.

Inside the first courtyard

Chuck shooting a crossbow

Inner courtyard

After visiting the castle we stopped for lunch at a spot across the lake from the castle.  We got these delicious pierogi type things in a cheese sauce, more kibinais, and some funky tumeric tea.  Delicious.

Yummy lunch with a great view of the castle!

Everything was great until we decided to come back to Vilnius.  We tried hailing a taxi, but there were none to be found.  We found a tourist center and they said someone could be there in hours, and then that they couldn’t find anyone.  This left one option – walking the couple of miles to the bus station then taking a bus back to Vilnius and then walking back from the bus station to our hotel.  It sucked.  A lot.  BUT we made it back and once we were back to Vilnius, we decided to explore more of the town instead of resting at the hotel.

First stop was Užupis which is a neighborhood that declared itself it’s own Republic and has it’s own constitution, currency, flag, and even a president.  Their ambassador is a cat.  Yes, really.  We only wandered around for about 5 minutes as there wasn’t much to see.  Sadly, we didn’t get to see the cat.

Uzupis Constitution
Angel of Užupis

From there, we walked to St. Anne’s Church which was opened in 1500.  There is a stone out front commemorating the first public protest of the Soviet occupation as well.

From here we wandered thru the side streets of Old Town back to the main strip and sat down for some coffee and dessert and people watching.

On our way back to our hotel room, I wanted to make a 2nd stop to the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit we’d visited on our first day.  I’ve never been so spiritually moved being in a church before and I wanted to go sit quietly and take it all in.  It was so calming and I’m glad I went back to sit.

Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit

At this point our legs were killing us – I wish I’d taken my Garmin to see how far we walked – so we took a short rest at the hotel before trying to find a restaurant near our hotel.  We found a restaurant serving Georgian food.  Neither of us had a clue what Georgian food was, but it was busy and close so we gave it a shot.  It was a revelation!

I got the Shkmeruli which is chicken in a garlic cream sauce served in a clay dish.  And Chuck got chicken shashlik.  We also got Georgian red wine and Imeruli which is a dough filled with Georgian cheese.  It was all incredible.  One of my favorite meals of my life actually!   Of course we had to get dessert and got a delicious honey cake with fresh fruit.

Shkmeruli – chicken in a garlic cream sauce
Chicken Shashlik and Imeruli

The next morning we walked to the bus station and took a 4+ hour bus trip from Vilnius, Lithuania to Riga, Latvia with Lux Express.  The bus was very modern and comfortable and it was a neat way to see the countryside and little towns.

Africa Kruger South Africa

Kruger Days 2 – 6

After our amazing first day in Kruger, we still had 4 more full days in the park plus the morning of leaving the park.  And what an incredible few days those turned out to be as well.

The morning of day 2, I woke at the crack of dawn and went down to the restaurant deck to see if I could catch any early morning predators.  I didn’t see much except a mama and baby hippo and some kudu grazing near the restaurant.

Mama and baby hippo and a 3rd hippo in the water
Kudu

After breakfast, we checked out of Lower Sabie camp and headed to Satara camp.  The two camps are 93km apart and the trip was expected to take 3:45.  It took us about 5+ hours, but that included a stop at Tshokwane picnic spot for an unusual lunch.  Along the way we saw more giraffe, buffalo, zebra, wildebeest, impala, warthog, and elephants.

Elephant
Buffalo
Zebra and buffalo
Zebra crossing the road
Elephant spraying himself with mud

We also saw a few new animals such as ostriches (that were fighting), vervet monkeys at the picnic spot, and baboons running along the road.

Ostriches fighting

Our trip also took a little longer because we had an elephant in the road that wouldn’t move.  An oncoming car tried to go around him, but the elephant promptly put a stop to that and made them back up, so we had to wait for him to move on.

Elephant in the road. Nope, not going to try to go past him!

We also made a pit stop at Nkumbe hill lookout for a great view of Kruger.  The landscape was very different here from what we’d seen in Lower Sabie.

View from Nkumbe Hill lookout

Once at Satara camp, we laid low the rest of the day.  We still got to see impala, kudu, a tree squirrel, and baboons at camp.  There was also a snake at camp, but we’re not going to talk about that.

Baboons playing at camp
Our hut at Satara and our rental car

Day 3 was supposed to be a low-key day without anything scheduled except a guided night drive and doing some laundry.  We woke at the crack of dawn anyway to try to see some predators (they hunt in the early mornings and late in the day).  We were out for about an hour before we stumbled upon some Southern Ground Hornbills.  We only knew what they were because we’d seen signs about them being endangered and to report them for tracking if you see them, which we did.  It was really cool to see something endangered and “rare”.

Endangered Southern Ground Hornbill

We also had some good viewing of the usual animals including a giraffe walking across the road.  In fact, I could do an entire blog post of all the animals we had to stop to let cross the road.

Giraffe in the road

We were giving up and heading back to camp for breakfast when we spotted a lion walking in the road.  He eventually stopped and looked at us for a while before lying down.  He was amazing to watch!  We saw him licking himself, but my favorite part was watching him turn towards the breeze, close his eyes, and enjoy the breeze.  With our binoculars we got close up views of him too.  Eventually he got up and walked into the bush and within about 15′ he was gone from view.  What an incredible experience.

Lion enjoying the breeze
Lion licking his paws

That afternoon Chuck and I went out right before sunset, but we didn’t see anything new.  And then that night we went out on a guided night drive from 8-10pm.  It’s pitch black out so they give a few people searchlights that they use to canvas the dark.  We found a male and female lion hanging out, then we found a male lion sleeping the road.  Our game vehicle pulled up right next to him – no joke, our wheels were maybe 6′ from him.  He could’ve easily stood up and tried to eat us, but luckily he was happier to sleep.

Lion sleeping in the road
This shows how close we really are to him. I think that’s Beckett’s head in the way.

We also saw jackals, a genet cat, and an owl as well as some of the usual animals.

Day 4 it was time to leave Satara and make the 4 hour drive to Skukuza camp.  We made a brief pit stop at Tshockwane picnic spot for a potty break then motored to Skukuza.  The vegetation got so thick near Skukuza that you couldn’t see a thing unless it was right next to the road or there was a mob of cars pulled over pointing out something interesting.  We still saw ostrich, 2 more lions, elephants, zebra, wildebeest, impala, warthog, baboon, kudu, and hippos out of the water.  And we saw a honey badger!

Ostrich
Kudu crossing the road
2 lions on the river bank
Mom and baby elephant
Warthog

Once at camp, we ate lunch then checked into our cottage by the river.

Our cottage in Skukuza

Then Chuck and I went out on a sunset drive hunting for leopard or cheetah.  Instead we saw a hyena that trotted beside our car.  He was much cooler than I expected.

Hyena
Hyena

Day 5 was our last full day in Kruger. I woke really early and was treated to a mass migration of birds along the river.  It was unlike anything I’ve ever seen and lasted a good 20 minutes.  There had to be hundreds of thousands of birds that flew by!

Mara was kind of over all the driving at this point, but Beckett convinced me to sign up for a sunset drive with him as he was hoping to see a bushbaby.

Chuck and I were still hunting for leopard and/or cheetah so we went out in the morning, but didn’t see any.  We did find a troop of baboons covering a bridge though.  They were all over and cars were forced to slalom around them if they wanted to cross.  When we tried to cross, we had one baboon jump on the back of our car!  He sat there looking into our trunk and at us.  Eventually we drove away and he fell off although he tried really hard to hold onto our rear wiper.  Crazy!

Baboon on our car window
Baboons all over the bridge

That evening Beckett and I headed out on the most amazing guided sunset drive.  You can read more about it here.

Chuck and Mara stayed back at camp and had an African braai.  A braai is basically a BBQ and the camps have BBQ grills set up outside the huts and throughout camp.  They grilled impala, steak, corn, potatoes, and garlic bread and had a fantastic time!

Mara, grill master
Impala, steak, garlic bread, corn, and potatoes

After our sunset drive, Beckett and I grabbed dinner and on the way back to our cottage, Chuck spotted the biggest porcupine I’ve ever seen.  He started following it trying to get a picture and I was trying to light it with my flashlight.  That is until the porcupine started running at me, so I promptly turned and ran away.  I wish we’d gotten a good picture because he was huge and so cool looking.

Day 6 came and it was time to check out and leave the park.  We drove about 2 hours to one of the gates and got one last look at all our favorite animals along the way: giraffe, elephants, antelope, a rhino mom and her baby, and more.  We even saw a female lion eating a buffalo kill.

Baby rhino – so cute!
Vultures
Lots of vultures in a tree near a lion kill
More hornbills?

We also got a family picture before leaving the park.

Last morning in Kruger

I was only a tiny bit sad to be leaving the park only because the experience was over.  Even though I’d been dreaming of an African safari for as long as I can remember, our time in Kruger exceeded my expectations.  I’m still blown away by all the animals and birds we saw.  And I feel much richer and so incredibly lucky for having experienced this amazing adventure.  All of us do.  What a highlight of my life!

Here are a few more pictures and video:

My favorite bird
Waterbuck
Shows Mara’s perspective of animals crossing the road
Another colorful rainbow bird
Cool tree
Termite mound
Guinea Fowl – Mara called them African chickens because they were everywhere
Crocodile

 

Day 2 (Lower Sabie to Satara):

Driving Route: We took the H10 north from Lower Sabie camp to Tshokwane picnic spot (approx. 40km and took about 2.5 hours)
Animals: Giraffe, buffalo, zebra, wildebeest, impala, warthog, elephant, ostrich, baboon, and monkeys at Tshokwane

Driving Route: After Tshokwane picnic spot, we took the H1-3 to Satara (approx. 44km and took about 2 hours)
Animals: Elephant, giraffe

Animals at Satara camp: Baboon, kudu, impala, tree squirrel, vervet monkey

Day 3 (Satara):

Driving Route for morning drive (6:30am): S100
Animals: Southern Ground Hornbill, lion, vervet monkey, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, waterbuck

Driving Route for sunset drive (4:30pm): S100
Animals: Zebra, giraffe

Day 4 (Satara to Skukuza):

Driving Route: We took the H1-3 from Satara to Tshokwane. Then we took the H1-2 from Tshokwane to Skukuza. The whole trip is around 93km and took about 4:45
Animals: Ostrich, honey badger, elephant, zebra, wildebeest, impala, warthog, baboon, hippos out of the water, 2 lions, kudu

Driving Route for sunset drive (4:30pm): H4-1
Animals: Hyena, buffalo

Day 5 (Skukuza):

Driving Route: We took the H4-1 to the H12 bridge and back
Animals: Baboons on H12 bridge, monkey, kudu, impala and warthogs near camp.  Porcupine and a small antelope at camp.

Day 6 (Skukuza to Malelane Gate):

Driving Route: We took the H3 from Skukuza to Malelane gate. It took about 2:15.
Animals: Rhino mom and baby, lion with buffalo kill, elephants, giraffe, zebra, impala, kudu, vultures

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Africa Kruger South Africa

A Magical Sunset Drive in Kruger

Leopard in a tree

On our last full day in Kruger, Beckett kept saying that he wanted to do a guided sunset drive.  We were surprised as we’d spent so many hours in the car hunting for animals already.  I think he partly wanted to see a bushbaby, but he also said he wanted to see more animals.  So he and I signed up for it through the camp while Chuck and Mara stayed back to have an African braai.  The drive only cost us about $30 for the 2 of us, and I have to say it was the best $$ I’ve spent in a long time.  We LUCKED OUT and had the most amazing drive of pretty much our entire trip!!

We left at 4pm and quickly saw elephants, a klipspringer, duiker, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, impala, and more.  Some in our game vehicle were probably new to the park as they were so excited about seeing each of these and kept asking to stop.  Our guide would stop briefly, but kept telling us that he had news of an animal sighting he was in a hurry to get us to.  He didn’t say which animal, but we knew it would be good.

Klipspringer
Elephant

Eventually we came up a hill and there she was: the most incredible leopard lounging in a tree!  I couldn’t believe it!  She is seriously one of the most beautiful animals I’ve ever seen!  We pulled off next to the tree and sat there for a good 10 minutes taking pictures and watching her.  And with the binoculars, we got close up views of her.  After a bit, she stood up, stretched, then settled down for a nap on another branch.  AMAZING!

Leopard in a tree
Open mouthed
She is so amazing!
Stretching kitty
Rear paws dangling as she naps
Loved seeing all 4 paws dangle as she napped!

After leaving her, we saw 2 White Rhinos grazing nearby.

2 Rhinos

Then we saw an African wildcat.  He looked like a house cat!

At this point, the sun was setting so we transitioned into a dusk drive.  After a bit, we came upon a den of hyenas.  The den was right beside the road and the pups sat there looking at us before running in and out of their den and around their mom.  The pups were at points maybe 7′ from our game vehicle!  They were adorable!

Hyena pups
3 Hyena pups and their mom

The sky then turned dark and we got out the search lights to scan the darkness.  We found a white tailed mongoose, African wildcat, and Beckett found a scrub hare.

One of the guys on our game drive knew about a lion kill next to the road near camp, so the guide drove us there.  And we were treated to watching a male lion feast on a buffalo kill.  It was pitch black and we only had search lights to watch him.  My pictures barely came out, but still gives you an idea what we saw.  Eventually he got up and walked away and we saw a female lion laying there.  The way the lion looked at us before he left, Beckett and I were worried he was going to walk out of the bush in front of the game vehicle and attack us.

I navigated us back to the spot the next morning so Chuck and Mara could see, but the lion and carcass were gone. 🙁

Lion eating a buffalo kill
Love his eyes

We got back to camp a bit after 7pm absolutely giddy by what we’d seen.  I thought we’d see a few things, but cannot believe our good luck at seeing a leopard, a lion with a kill, rhinos, and 4 other new animals.  This 3 hour drive was another highlight of our trip and something I won’t ever forget.  Beckett says seeing the leopard was the highlight of his entire time in Kruger as well.

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Africa Kruger South Africa

A Dream Day in Kruger National Park

I’ve dreamed of going on an African safari since I was a kid.  Back then it seemed unrealistic and reserved for the ultra-rich.  As I got into my 20s, I started seeing affordable deals and knew it could happen someday.  So when I first created my bucket list in my late 20s, the African safari was #1 on the travel list.  However, it still took me another 20+ years to get there.  But I finally got there!  And I got to take my kids and husband along which was the icing on the cake.

We arrived at the Crocodile River outside the park around 10am and immediately saw hippos and crocodiles in the river!  Upon crossing the bridge, we saw our first giraffe as he casually ate then walked right in front of our car!

Hippos in the Crocodile River
Giraffe about to cross the road


We weren’t even in the park yet and had already seen 3 different types of animals!

After entering the park, we headed to the Hippo Pools to see more hippos.  Along the way we saw a rhino in the distance, more giraffe, a dwarf mongoose, and of course hippos at the pools.

Hippos at the Hippo Pools

We then headed to the Lower Sabie camp.  It’s only 34km to camp, but given that you want to go very slowly so as not to miss anything, it took us about 2 1/2 hours to get there.  It also took a long time because we kept stopping over and over to see the animals.

We quickly came upon 3 White Rhinos grazing right next to the road! I can’t even describe how excited we were. We sat there for a long time watching them and taking pictures and video. I still feel so incredibly lucky we got such a great rhino sighting!!

3 Rhinos
Close up of a white rhino

As we drove on we saw warthogs, more giraffes, zebra, wildebeest, and so many impala.

Warthogs. There was a baby warthog, but I didn’t get a picture of him.
Wildebeest crossing the road
Zebra
Zebras, impala, and a cool bird
I love his stripes
Herd of impala with warthogs and a zebra mixed in
Zebra and impala

After that, we came to some water and saw a huge crocodile basking in the sun.  We also saw some neat bird – I think he’s the Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill.

Crocodile
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill (I think)

Next, we came upon a herd of elephants beside the road.  One of them was pulling bark off a tree and eating it.  One of the moms had a baby with her and after a while, she looked at us, flared her ears, and made it clear we were no longer welcome, so we quickly drove away.

Elephant pulling bark off a tree and eating it

Next up was more giraffe and hippos out of the water!

Giraffe in foreground with hippos in the background
Hippos out of the water
Pretty heron?!?

As if that wasn’t enough, as we got near camp, there was a mass of cars pulled off looking at a lion!  Our first lion sighting in the first few hours!

See the lion right above the tree stump?

We finally pulled into camp around 1:30pm quite hungry.  The restaurant was on a fantastic deck with an incredible view.  As we ate, we saw at least 10 giraffes across the river and some buffalo relaxing at the water’s edge.

The restaurant at Lower Sabie Camp. Not the best picture, but the only one I have of the deck and surrounds.
View from the restaurant
Black bellied starling?!? These guys were all over the restaurant trying to swoop in for a snack.

After getting settled into our cottage at camp, Chuck and I went to Sunset Dam around 4:30pm for sunset.  There are usually big cat sightings at the dam, but we only saw more hippos, crocodiles, and a bunch of birds.  It was still neat to see though.

Hippo in the water, crocodiles on the edge of the water, and a stork
Hippo with it’s mouth open
Beautiful, rainbow bird. I have no idea what it is, so I referred to them as “fun birds” the whole trip.

At dinner, we were treated to a beautiful sky.  We also had a barn owl in the rafters hooting away.  And there were impala and kudu grazing in the grasses beside the restaurant.  Unreal.

I’m still in awe of our first day in Kruger.  It was a complete highlight of my life, and even the kids and Chuck were blown away by all they saw.  Definitely a dream come true for me!

Driving Route:

We entered Kruger via the R571 from Komatipoort to the Crocodile Bridge Gate.
After the gate, we took the left fork to the S25, then a left onto S27 to the Hippo Pools.
We then retraced back to the gate and took the right fork onto H4-2 to Lower Sabie camp.
The H4-2 trip is 34km and was scheduled to take 1:20, but it took us about 2 hours.

Animal Sightings:

Before the Crocodile Bridge Gate: Hippopotamus, Crocodile, Giraffe
To/From the Hippo Pools: Giraffe, Rhinoceros, Dwarf Mongoose, Hippopotamus
Along H4-2 from Crocodile Bridge Gate to Lower Sabie camp: Rhinoceros, Warthog, Impala, Wildebeest, Zebra, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Elephant, Lion, Crocodile
At Lower Sabie camp: Buffalo, Hippopotamus, Kudu, Impala, Giraffe, Barn Owl, and lots of birds
At Sunset Dam: Hippopotamus, Crocodile, Storks, and lots of other birds

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Europe Iceland

Seeing the Magical Northern Lights in Iceland

Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland

I’ve wanted to see the Northern Lights for as long as I can remember.  Every year I’d see the cheap deals to Iceland and want to book a trip to see them, but never did.   This year, however, I finally took the plunge and bought one of the crazy deals from WOW Air to see Copenhagen and hopefully see the Aurora Borealis in Iceland.

I booked the Disco Northern Lights minibus tour with Discover Iceland for my first night in Reykjavik.  If you don’t see the lights the first night, they’ll let you go out another night for free so this left me with 2 more chances to see them if the first night didn’t work.

As soon as we left the lights of Reykjavik, our guide, Thor, pointed out the start of the Aurora Borealis out the windows of the minibus.  He opted to take us near the mountains only 20-30 minutes out of town as we could already see them.

On the way, Thor told us exactly how to set our DSLR cameras, so we were prepared to take pictures as soon as we arrived.

Once I got out of the minibus, the lights were on full display.  I couldn’t believe my luck!

The interesting thing is that they don’t look exactly like they do in the pictures.  They’re more white wispiness with occasional colors.  They’re still spectacular and I felt so lucky to finally see them with my own eyes.

Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland
Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland
Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland

Thor helped me set up a tripod and I started snapping picture after picture.  In the meantime, he took a bunch of pictures which he later shared with us.  He also took pictures of each of us in front of the lights by having us stand frozen for about 10 seconds then briefly flashing a light on us.  What an amazing keepsake!

Unfortunately, none of my pictures turned out well at all – I think my focus wasn’t set right but it also appears my tripod kept moving so they ended up blurry.

Here are my best shots 🙁

The stars were also incredible that night and Jupiter was so bright it was like a tiny moon in the sky.

Photo courtesy of Thor Ostensen of Discover Iceland
At least some of my star pictures turned out ok

After about an hour, Thor broke out the hot cocoa and cookies to help warm us as we stood in the 14°F cold.  My hands and feet started to get quite cold, but I didn’t care as I took in the beauty of nature around me.

We stayed in the same spot for about 1:30 before finally calling it quits and heading back to Reykjavik.  We could see the lights on the trip back and they started to get even more incredible, so Thor pulled off for a brief view.  As soon as I got out of the bus, the lights were a brilliant green and were lighting up a huge section of the sky.  They were even more magical than what we saw earlier and I think I stood there with my mouth open uttering “wow” as I just couldn’t believe what I was seeing.  I swear those images are forever sealed in my memory.

I got back to my hotel a bit after midnight still pinching myself.

I highly recommend Discover Iceland especially after talking to other travelers that went on the big bus trips.  They didn’t have nearly the same experience, didn’t get help with their cameras, didn’t get their picture taken, and didn’t get the guide’s pictures emailed to them later.  Also, while we were out there alone, they were somewhere else with 100s of others.  They definitely made the experience even greater.

Georgia USA

Driving Tanks and Crushing Cars!

On Sunday of my Amazing Race Birthday weekend, I received my last clue:

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WHAT?!?  I had to read it twice before I busted out laughing.  I had no idea that one could do such a thing and was equally shocked, excited and amused.  Chuck really surprised me with this one.

It took us 1:30 to drive to Tank Town and we arrived right before 2pm.  We met with the owner who had us fill out the required waivers and then we were ready to go.

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I headed into the driver’s seat while Chuck took the seat up top.  After a very brief explanation of how to drive the tank, off we went.  The instructor stayed near my ear to tell me where to go and took me all around the course.  It takes a little getting used to driving and how fast to go, but is pretty easy and a whole lot of fun.

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After about 15 minutes of driving, we switched up and Chuck got to drive.  I must say I really enjoyed being in the passenger seat up top.  I’m also happy it had a seat belt as I surely would’ve been thrown off the top without it!

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After we each got a turn driving the tank around the course, we got to choose our car to destroy, then spray-paint it.  Of course, we had to take that opportunity to write Mara and Beckett’s names on there.

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Then it was time to CRUSH IT!  I took the first couple passes over the car, first head-on, then across the rear.  Chuck then drove over the midsection a couple of times before driving up the front and parking on top of the car!

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Oh, was this parking spot already taken? My bad!
Oh, was this parking spot already taken? My bad!

Finally, we got to take a sledgehammer and take a few whacks at the car.  I think this was Chuck’s favorite part and he was quite determined to hammer the mirror off the side.

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It was a really fantastic, visceral experience!  Definitely worth doing if you don’t mind shelling out the money.

 

Logistics: We did this at Tank Town USA near Blue Ridge, GA about 1:30 north of Atlanta.

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Alabama Georgia Mississippi North America Tennessee USA

My Amazing Race Birthday Weekend

WereOff

For my birthday this year, Chuck surprised me with an Amazing Race inspired birthday adventure.  I received a vague email a few weeks before my birthday telling me that we were going away from Friday to Monday and a later email said we were doing an Amazing Race.  The afternoon before we left, I received one more email that said we were flying and to pack light.  And that’s it, that’s all I knew.

On Friday afternoon around 2pm, I received my first clue:

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First stop: Memphis!

After arriving at our hotel in Memphis, I received my next clue:

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BEALE STREET!  YAY!  I’d driven by Memphis about 20 years ago but never drove into the city, so I was pretty excited to finally explore Beale Street.  Plus a night out with BBQ, booze and Blues sounded awesome!

After a couple of block walk, we arrived at Beale Street and headed to BB King’s Blues Club for dinner.  I had some yummy BBQ and Chuck enjoyed the ribs while we listened to a band playing all sorts of Memphis blues.  After dinner, we wandered around Beale Street and stopped into an outdoor venue with a really good band.  We had such a great time drinking cocktails and listening to live music under the night sky.

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Saturday morning started with receiving my next clue:

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Arkansas?!?  To a Truck stop?  I was thoroughly confused at this point and not exactly super happy to be going to a truck stop in Arkansas but I knew it had to be good.  Turns out, Chuck has never been to Arkansas before so this was a way for him to get there.  Love it.

At the truck stop, I got my next clue: another Road Block that said we were going to an Escape Room in Memphis.  Fun!  I didn’t know much about these except you have to solve a lot of puzzles and many people don’t escape.

Ours was called the Atlas 8 and was a spaced themed room.  Along with another family of 5, we had 1 hour to solve the puzzles and get out.  They basically put you in an sparse room without any clues and you have to figure it out from there.  It was definitely not easy, BUT we managed to escape with about 6 minutes left.

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Once we escaped, I got my first detour: Graceland or Continue on.  Of course I chose Graceland!

I’m not a huge Elvis fan, but it was still very cool to see where he lived and to see all of his gold records, his awards and other artifacts from his life.

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After Graceland, I found out we were going to Mississippi!  I was quite happy as I’m trying to get to all 50 states (I was at 43) and Mississippi was one of my missing states.

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We drove about 2 hours to Tupelo, Mississippi and saw Elvis’s birthplace.

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We also stopped for a snack as I then found out my next clue: Drive 2 more hours to Birmingham, Alabama.  Alabama was another of my missing states, so I got to cross off 2 states in 1 day.

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I was so relieved as we approached Birmingham as it was getting late and we also started having some horrible storms.  I was also done with being in a car and wanted dinner and a bed.  Imagine my surprise when I was handed my next clue that said we were headed another 2 hours to Atlanta!  ATLANTA?!?!  Huh?  I knew why were headed to Mississippi and Alabama, but couldn’t fathom why we were going there.  Unfortunately our tire pressure light came on (still no idea why) and it kept raining so we didn’t roll into our hotel till after 11pm.  Chuck had meant for us to go out to dinner – he gave me a choice of Italian, Mexican or German – but all the restaurants were closed by then.  But we found an open pizza joint and then headed to bed.  All told, we spent at least 8 hours and 400 miles driving and were in 5 states in one day.  Phew!

Sunday morning, I got my last Road Block clue:  Drive to Tank Town and Crush a car!  You can read about that experience here.

After driving the tank, my last clue said to return to the hotel as the final pit stop for our race.  For dinner, we went to the German restaurant we didn’t get to on Saturday and enjoyed some delicious jagerschnitzel and German beer.

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Monday morning, my actual birthday, had us taking an early morning flight back home.

I must say, I can’t believe the trip Chuck put together for me.  Not only did he get me to 2 new states, but he planned all these activities along the way.  I can’t imagine the planning that went into this or how hard it was to keep quiet.  I was completely blown away by the entire weekend and felt so loved.  Thanks Chuck!

P.S. Where are we going next year? 😉

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California North America USA

The Wizarding World of Harry Potter

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Once we decided to go to Oregon and San Diego for our summer vacation, I started pushing to go to Universal Studios in LA.  Beckett and I had just started reading the Harry Potter books in the spring and I was completely sucked into the Harry Potter world (Chuck and Mara had already read them).  I think I was more excited than any of us to go and soak up all things Harry Potter.

We had early access (7am) to the park, but given our late night arrival, we didn’t get to the park till 8am.  No worries though as it was still pretty empty.  We made a bee line for Hogsmeade and to the 3D ride, Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey.  I was pretty nervous riding this as I’ve repeatedly heard how nauseous people get on it, and given how motion sick Mara and I get, I thought it could be a very bad idea.  However, we really wanted to go, so I sucked down some ginger candies and hoped for the best.

The entrance to the ride takes you into Hogwarts and it’s AMAZING.  You see the house point containers, a golden Griffin, the Defense Against the Dark Arts classroom, a portrait gallery (with walking, talking portraits that were amazing), the Gryffindor common room, the Fat Lady portrait which talks to you, Dumbledore’s office, the Sorting Hat, and more.  It was incredible.  It was also incredibly dark so my pictures didn’t turn out.

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The ride itself was one of the best rides I’ve ever gone on.  It’s part rollercoaster and part 3D ride.  At a few points we were “flying” all around Hogwarts and in another we flew into a game of Quidditch (and almost caught the Golden Snitch).  At other points, we were in parts of Hogwarts and almost got pummeled by the Whomping Willow and attacked by dementors.

Unfortunately, halfway through the ride, it came to abrupt stop with warning messages sounding.  We just sat there in our car waiting to see what happened and after a few minutes, the ride started back up and we were back on our way.

When it was over, it was hard to process what had just happened.  We had just flown!  And played Quidditch!  And soared over Hogwarts!  It was SO COOL!

However, we all felt a bit nauseous afterwards and needed to get our bearings again.  So we headed to Ollivander’s Wand Shop for the wand choosing ceremony.  There was a 45 minute line so I offered to stand in line while Chuck took the kids on the other Harry Potter rollercoaster, Flight of the Hippogriff.

None of us were picked for the wand choosing ceremony but it was still really neat to see.  I’m so glad I stood in line for it.  After the ceremony, we went into Ollivander’s to pick out our wand.  We had agreed to get 1 wand and share it, but both kids picked out different wands so we bought one for each of them.  Mara picked out her own wand made of vine and Beckett picked out Dumbledore’s wand.  Once bought, it was time to go outside and try casting some spells!

At the wand choosing ceremony in Ollivanders
At the wand choosing ceremony in Ollivanders

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Description of Mara's wand
Description of Mara’s wand

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Different character's wands - really neat to see what they all looked like
Different character’s wands – really neat to see what they all looked like
My 2 wizards with their new wands
My 2 wizards with their new wands
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Expecto Patronum!

There are about 12 different spots around Hogsmeade where you can try out spells with your wand.  If you do them correctly, something happens.  Of course the kids and I tried every spot and LOVED when the various spells worked!  Such a neat feeling!

Let's see if they work!
Let’s see if they work!
They work!
They work!

After trying out our wands, it was time for lunch at the Three Broomsticks!  This place was so cool and it felt like stepping right into the movies.  I kept expecting to see Snape come down the steps or Harry to walk in.

The Three Broomsticks
The Three Broomsticks

We ordered a Butterbeer with lunch and the kids went nuts for it.  It reminded me of very sweet cream soda but was good.  The kids could barely suck it down fast enough.

Butterbeer gets a Thumbs Up from Beckett
Butterbeer gets a Thumbs Up from Beckett

After lunch it was time to wander around Hogsmeade.  First stop, Honeydukes!  Man is this place a feast for the eyes.  Beckett wasn’t nearly as interested in the candy as Mara was, and he made a beeline for the Pygmy Puffs in the adjacent Zonko’s.

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Honeydukes
Please can I have the ginormous pygmy puff?!? Please mom?!?
Please can I have the ginormous pygmy puff?!? Please?!?

From there, we took our time in Hogsmeade just wandering into the various shops, casting spells at the different locations and soaking up the wizarding world.

Hogwarts Express
Hogwarts Express
Owl post
Owl post

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Once we covered everything in Harry Potter world, we left to explore the rest of Universal Studios park.  First stop, Lard Lad Donuts for the giant Homer donut!  We got the pink Homer donut and a giant chocolate one.  Quite tasty!

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Then we popped into a special effects presentation, wandered through Springfield (Simpson world), did the Movie Studio tour, popped over to the Despicable Me world, and took in the Waterworld stunt show.

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Krusty
The purple minion kept chasing Beckett around - it was hysterical
The purple minion kept chasing Beckett around – it was hysterical

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As the day was winding down, we headed back to Hogsmeade.  We rode Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey again, this time it didn’t glitch, and thoroughly enjoyed it the 2nd time around too.  Then we picked up a ton of souvenirs before reluctantly returning to the muggle world.

Beckett and his Pygmy Puff
Beckett and his Pygmy Puff

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The entire Harry Potter experience could not have been better.  I was blown away by how realistic everything was from the shops and souvenirs to the moving portraits to the wands casting spells to the town.  And ride was just incredible – I really felt like I got to fly and play Quidditch and I swear I touched the Golden Snitch.  We all really felt like wizards for the day.

I now really want to take the kids to the one in Florida!

Maryland USA

2016 Ironman Eagleman 70.3

I knew about triathlons especially since my best friend competed in them.  But it was never on my radar as something I wanted to do, largely due to my limitations in the past with biking and running.

That all changed when we moved to Kona and got to watch the Ironman World Championships in 2011 and 2012.  I was so inspired by the event and watching people with far more physical restrictions than I, complete that race.  I have never been so inspired in my entire life yet I still didn’t know how it could ever happen for me.  Chuck was equally inspired – so much so that he completed the Ironman Honu 70.3 in Hawaii in 2013.  It was incredible to cheer him on, yet it still left me on the sidelines.

That is until we realized that you can compete in some Ironman races as a relay team.  This changed everything!  I now had the chance to participate in a triathlon.  But not just any triathlon, an Ironman!  Team Trifecta was born: I would be the swimmer, Chuck would bike (his favorite of the 3 sports), and a friend of his, Dean, would run.

The first step?  Learning to swim distances.  I started swimming laps while living in Kona and even took some masters swim classes by a world class coach there.  But I still had never swam very far or had my technique correct.

My first session I made it about 400 yards (with many breaks).  My race distance was 1.2 miles or 2100 yards so I had quite a ways to go.  I found a swim plan to follow and loosely followed it to keep me on track.  However, there were some glitches along the way that kept me out of the water sometimes for weeks at a time, the worst being my left shoulder seizing up and preventing me from swimming.  Because of that, I put in the bare minimum amount of training.  To say I was undertrained and nervous come race day would be an understatement.

To add to that, I got a nasty cold leading up to the race and was so sick the day before I wasn’t sure if I could even compete. Chuck called Dean to see if he could swim in my place, but Dean wasn’t ready to swim 1.2 miles and neither was Chuck.  So with our fingers crossed, we headed to the race and hoped I would feel good enough the next day.

If I couldn’t swim, Chuck and Dean wouldn’t get to compete at all.  I would be taking all their training, and hard work away without letting them even participate.  The pressure on me felt enormous.

The night before the race I was still quite sick, but at this point, the race hinged on me just doing it regardless of how I felt.  My shoulder was still quite bad so that was a huge wildcard as well.

Race Day

The Swim – 1.2 miles – by Kirsten

Race morning we were up around 4am.  We headed the 45 minutes to Dean’s rental house where he made us breakfast.  The house was about 5-6 blocks from the race start, so we walked there around 6am.  After getting body marked, I ventured out into the water for a warm up swim.  The water was cold enough to make the race wetsuit legal (yay!), yet it wasn’t as cold as I feared.

The swim course – see the yellow buoys way out there?!?
Team Trifecta

Then it was time to wait.  The pros started then the amateur competitors started in waves.  I was in the last wave so I had to wait around for about an hour.

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The kids giving me some encouragement!
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I can do this… maybe???

At last it was time.  We walked down the boat ramp, lined up behind the start buoys, and waited for the starting horn.  Then we were off!

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Get Ready…
And we’re off!

I stayed towards the back, which still didn’t help me from being run over by one of the swimmers and getting caught under the boat he was tugging.  After the initial flurry, I found myself alone in the back.  I knew I had 1 swimmer behind me, but I think that was it.  And given that we were the last wave, I think I was the 2nd to last person out there on the course.

My biggest concern was making the cut off time of 1:10.  I was pretty sure I could do the distance as long as my shoulder held up, but I wasn’t sure how fast I could swim given the conditions and how sick I was.  And I didn’t have a lot of buffer time as I’m not a very fast swimmer.

Beckett watching the swim course

I got maybe 200 yards (out of 2100) and realized I was exhausted.  I was just completely spent.  If I didn’t have Chuck and Dean’s race hinging on my swim, I would’ve quit then.  And anyone that knows me, knows that I never quit anything unless I have no choice.  But frankly, I felt I had no choice but to keep on swimming.  Dory’s “keep on swimming” line kept going thru my head over and over.

To make matters worse, my goggles fogged up instantly so I couldn’t see.  I also pretty quickly realized how bad I was at spotting the buoys so I was swimming pretty blind.  I even started closing my eyes because it didn’t make any difference.  Of course this caused me to go completely off course the entire way – I kept getting near the water patrol and they’d send me back towards the course over and over again.

There were buoys every 100 yards so I would take a few second break at every buoy to clear my goggles, check my time, and take a break.  Of course, every time I did, the current would push me backwards and off course so I’d have to re-swim the distance back.

The good news was when I realized a few hundred yards in that I was on record pace (for me!).  I was swimming faster than usual so I as long as I could keep it up, I was in no danger from getting picked up or missing the cut off.  This took a HUGE load off my mind so then I could just focus on swimming.

Once I hit the first turn, everything got worse: the current picked up and pushed me even further out into the river and I was exhausted beyond all belief.  Luckily since I was the 2nd to last swimmer, the water patrol and boaters were all cheering me on, telling me how much time I had, and helping me stay on course.  A woman in a kayak came up and offered to let me hold on to take a break – at first I declined, but finally gave in and held on for about a minute to catch my breath.  In the Ironman, you’re allowed to hold on to the water patrol, you just can’t use them to make forward progress.

I owe the rest of my race to this lady.  She stuck with me the rest of the race and became my eyes, time keeper, and cheerleader all in one.

Once I got to the turn for home – with about 700 yards left – I had plenty of time, but I was cooked.  Plus, the wind picked up and kept blowing me off course.  But with this kayaker beside me, I was able to spot off of her and she kept me from going all over the place.  She also kept me abreast of the time and distance I had left and I knew I would make it if I just kept going even though every part of me wanted to quit.

Eventually I made it to the end of the course and, after thanking my kayak angel, I ran up the ramp and across the timing mat!  1:03:25!  I DID IT!

I DID IT!!!!

I heard the kids ringing their cowbells and cheering for me, but I still had to run thru the chute to the relay tent to tag Chuck for the bike.  He gave me the best hug and said he knew I could do it, grabbed the timing chip from my ankle, and took off for the bike.

I then found the kids who gave me big hugs.  And Mara took my victory picture above.

The Bike – 56 miles – by Chuck

The bike started off well, as I was reasonably trained and the course was very flat, allowing me to get into the groove.  Heading out on the bike loop, the wind was in my face and I raced a bit hard, trying to set a good pace.  That worked for a while, but I bonked about 20 miles in, causing me to get faint and spend a few minutes alongside the road recharging and hydrating.

Down the road a few minutes, my energy recovered, but then I started with cramps in my right foot, causing me to get off the bike for a bit every few miles.  All else was good, but it added up to a slow race when I had hoped to be sub-3:30.

Nice course and day, but I was just happy to be done!  Time: 3:44:46

The Run

Once Chuck racked his bike, he tagged Dean who went off on his 13.1 mile run.  It was about 1pm at this point and brutally hot.  Many of the competitors coming in looked so haggard from the sun and heat, so we really felt for Dean.

While he was out there running, Chuck, the kids, and I found some shade to relax in and took advantage of the free food for the athletes.  Chuck and I finally were able to relax at this point as our part was done and we’d both finished.

As it got to Dean’s estimated finish time, we headed over to the finish so we could cheer him home.  It was so great hearing our team name announced as he crossed the finishing mat!  Team Trifecta Finish Time: 7:45:25.  And 23rd out of 26 teams!

Team Trifecta Finished!

We met him at the end of the finish chute where he had each of our medals and a hat.

Team Trifecta

Wrap Up

Once the race was over, we all left pretty quickly so we could get home at a decent hour as the kids had school the next day and Chuck had to go into work.

I was elated the entire day and evening from the experience.  Unfortunately, I got even more sick on the way home and was even worse the days that followed.  But that didn’t damper my excitement over having competed in an Ironman and finishing!  I’m still so proud of my (our) accomplishment and know that I’m even tougher than I thought.

Now maybe it’s time for a full Ironman relay??!?

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North America USA

Indoor Skydiving at iFly

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The kids received a gift certificate for indoor skydiving for Christmas. However, they had to wait for the place to open a few months later.  We finally took them in April and they LOVED it.

They each said it was the coolest thing they’ve ever done and are already begging us to go back.

After a 15-20 min of classroom training, they each did 2 1-minute sessions.  It doesn’t sound like a lot of time but it lasts longer than you’d expect.  They had an option to add an additional 1-minute flight at the end.  Both kids were begging to do it again and of course we said yes.  By the third flight they were getting pretty good at it!

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Beckett’s Videos:

Mara’s Videos:

Their instructor’s sick moves:

Update: We all went as a family in April 2017.  Here are Chuck and my flights.

Chuck’s flight:

Kir’s flight:

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